Rock Climbing Training
Season 01
Workouts 045 to 51 ~~ March 25, 2018
Base Fitness Phase – Week 12!!!
A couple weeks of sunshine over here...
And suddenly I'm all jacked up and excited to get on the sharp end again. I'm gonna flip things around from the usual format that I had been previously following and quickly talk about the last week (two weeks in this case) of climbing training, then I'm gonna ramble about some fun stuff that we just did.
So the last time we touched base, was, I think... March 11th? Something like that, at least. It's been a while since I ranted on bullshitted (bullshat?) and pretending like I knew half a damn about what I'm doing. We've been doing a LOT of bouldering over the last two weeks. Pretty similar from day to day -- and if you've been checking out some of my Steepshot posts, you've probably seen some of the fun problems I've been getting through.
We've made it through the "Power" phase, and now we're into the "Power Endurance" phase. The work involved in this training phase is pretty much how it sounds. Trying to link together a couple pumpy boulder problems, or do some powerful climbing on ropes. Right now, we're working on powerful moves, with a DC ("Duty Cycle") of 2:3 (2 minutes of work to 3 minutes of rest). Training the body to be able to recruit power for extended sequences.
I think that's enough talk about training -- because nobody is super interested in that.
WE WENT ON A RECON MISSION YESTERDAY!
Yesterday,
@caitycat and I went to check out one of our favorite climbing spots within a few hours of home. The Nanaimo River - Sunnyside. We had a week or two of really nice weather over here, so we wanted to see if the rock was still super wet or not. I told myself, "God damn, self... If it's dry out there, we're going climbing on Easter long weekend!".
It's pretty wild being out here and listening to the river roaring behind you the whole time. There's a lot of water screaming by and making a lot of noise -- it's super impressive to hear. The crag on this side of the river is dubbed "The Sunnyside". While it's not overly apparent today, this side gets cookin' in the summer, and is pretty warm. I'm actually really excited to come here in the summer, climb hard all day, and go for some intermittent swims in the river in some of the pools that form amongst the boulders.
@caitycat... You can't make me look clever sometimes?
We didn't bring any gear out here with us today -- strictly wanted to scope it out and see what the conditions are like, and see if I can't get inspired by a couple routes. If I can find something cool, then I can also try to visualize it as part of my training, and try to train for specific features / climbing styles. For those of you that have been tuning in to these posts for a while -- I've got a bit of a throwback for you. Back on January 14th -- I wrote a CRUSHENING POST where I highlighted a few routes that sounded cool / challenging. Well we went and took a look at a couple of them. Specifically:
Unfortunately -- both of these routes were SUPER wet... Like.. the ONLY wet-spots on the walls...
That being said though -- these routes actually looked like a lot of fun, and I'm totally gonna try to keep them in mind when I'm training. From what I could see at the base (not much), the left one is big jug holds the whole way up, with some interesting foot-work. The one on the right looked like it had some more technical / crimpy holds and some tiny foot holds. After checking those ones out we walked past a lineup of other routes we climbed before, and a few more goal routes (5.11a Psuedo Placenta -- not pictured -- looks like a crimpfest gem).
I wanted to try to find a handful of routes that I hadn't seen before, and the book was kind of vague as to where they are (maybe they've been seriously over grown...?). I figured they were down a bench closer to the river, so we popped down that way. Couldn't really find anything, so we just decided to explore a bit more.
Pretty much as soon as we got down to the river, we started to feel a little drip-drop on our heads. It was on and off raining on the way out here, so we figured it wouldn't be too stormy. Unfortunately, the pleasant little drip-drop pretty quickly turned into a fun little hail-storm -- so we decided it was probably best to head'er back to the car ASAP. I was just getting excited to shoot a little bit of video too -- but then my hands got chilly.
BOULDER BOUNTY COMPETITION:
Click here to find out what the hell I'm talking about
Nobody solved the problem from last week AGAIN, so it's rolling over to this week! This post has been boosted via upvotes with 100% of the SBD rewards from the previous post (or at least pretty close.. I'm doing it early because I dont' wanna stay up late... I'll make sure it matches later)!
MoonBoard 2016 Holders -- Original + A + B:
Roughly 6B+ / V4 -- depending on which scale you fancy;
SAR&MAR BEAR CLIMB - V4, Set by: BEAVES, with 291 Repeats!
Start with both hands on green. Follow only the blue circled holds. Finish with both hands on red with control!
POST EVIDENCE, AND WIN 50% OF THE SBD THIS POST EARNS!
Be well, stay safe, and I'll see you on the sharp side (once it dries out around here).
Previous CRUSHENING posts:
Week 11 / Fake week 12
Days 43-44
Day 42
Please vote and resteem generously. There's some amazing places on the island that I would like to share.
I try to respond to all questions and comments that I get, so make some noise! If you have any questions about some of the climbing jargon / lingo I used, just ask, and I'll break it down. I might even make it a feature in my next post, in which case I'll give you some credit, and maybe even some kind of reward... unknown at this time -- nobody has asked any questions... except for a select few legitimately awesome folks.
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