Most athletes understand that structure is necessary in a training regimen. These structures and systems are usually simple guidelines that help to quantify our skills and strength. As we progress, more detail in these training regimens will be revealed and more specific criteria for progress will be identified. For now, we will focus on the major physical cycles that a climber, in particular, will employ in order to progress.
Training cycles can be approached from two primary perspectives: periodized or synchronized training.
In a periodized training model, specific workouts fit into a macro-framework of three to four periods, worked through in a linear fashion over a timeframe of weeks or months. Beginning with an endurance phase, moving to a power phase, then power-endurance and finally a cross-training and rest period.
These three periods require more specific explanation:
Endurance Phase: Four to six weeks, two or three workouts per week. This phase is described by low to moderate levels of physical exertion but a high total volume of climbing. Most climbers will employ traversing on varied terrain, easy roped climbing, easy bouldering and simple strength training in their workouts. The object of the climbing should be to learn new movements, to entrain correct movement pathology for known movements and to improve cardiovascular/aerobic capacity.
Power Phase: Four to eight weeks, two or three workouts per week. During the power phase, a climber should begin to exert at a medium to high level in a moderate volume. Most climbers will begin to try hard boulder problems and redpoint toprope routes. Specific movement should be entrained in increasingly powerful ways, i.e. dynamic and deadpoint movement, deep lock-offs, very steep boulders, etc. The object in this phase is to solidify known movements, apply high effort to singular movements and improve anaerobic/lactic capacity.
Power-Endurance Phase: Two to four weeks, two workouts per week. This portion of the major cycle is devoted to very high effort in a moderate to high volume. Most climbers will begin to redpoint multiple routes during each workout and/or boulder at a high rate of effort; this is when we start to chase a new grade for a short period of time. The object in this phase is primarily to string together multiple known movements of high power in sequences that are difficult to connect. High focus and high effort are characteristic of each workout in this phase.
Cross-Train and REST: 2 weeks; 4 to 10 weeks if recovering from injury. Resting for a protracted period is necessary to allow our bodies to repair and supercompose our muscles and other soft tissue. Climbing can be very intensive on our pulling muscles and so this is the time to even out the effort by pushing, running, swimming, stretching and engaging in other sports. If recovering from injury, be sure to seek professional medical advice and refrain from climbing until recovery is complete. Training over injuries or severe fatigue is a sure way to stay hurt and stifle progress.
Periodized training is useful for athletes that require a specific plan and like to stick to a long-term structure. Over several weeks, training takes on a linear feel that is easy to follow and analyze. Beginners often train in such a way because many plans are available online for free!
Syncronized training, explained very simply, is a training style in which each of the four phases above fits into each workout in micro-cycles. For example, you may begin with a long traverse to warm up and test your endurance (Endurance Phase), then begin to work on a redpoint boulder problem (Power Phase), followed by two redpoint sport routes (P/E Phase) and finally a cool down that might include a short strength-training session and yoga.
Both of these training models are useful and relatively simple to follow. Keep in mind that these ideas about our training are vague. We are establishing a mind-set of structure and discipline in our workouts that makes training easier and also makes our results more quantifiable and predictable. As we employ these cyclical models, we will notice an ability to overlay harder training and movement over a longer period of time after each cycle. In other words, each cycle should feel harder than the last, and thus our result should be climbing harder! But don't be discouraged if you feel that you have plateaued; sometimes that means we just need a rest! Recharge, and get back into the game!
Stay stoked for example workouts for each training style that will get your mind and body kick-started for your climbing training, coming soon!!
