Training for Climbing Series: Power Phase 1

If you haven't seen my previous posts: Training for Climbing Series: Training Cycle Basics and Endurance Phase Workout 1, then please read those two posts before this one to stay on track and understand this regimen. After a comprehensive skill and technique orientation during the Localized Endurance Phase which includes watching and emulating more advanced climbers, the next step is to increase the power with which we can utilize those movements.

Power Phase (Total 4 weeks, 12 workouts)

Preparation: Climbing gear, running shoes, recovery foods, ((half cup black coffee))

Example workout: 3 days per week, alternate

Warm up and sip half cup black coffee (20 minutes):

1. Five push-up claps
2. Five jump-squats
3. 10 second dead-hang, full-pad crimps on vertical wall
4. 10 second dead-hang, whole-hand slopers on comfortable angle
5. Five divers
6. Repeat 1 through 5 three times

Workout (1.5 hours):

1. Choose and read 3 boulder problems in your effort range of 50 to 70 percent. These should be climbs that require a good deal of your effort but are more than likely climbed first or second attempt.
2. Climb these and perform one minute of planks on elbows, one minute of side planks (starfish) each side and ten perfect pushups between each boulder.
3. Choose a single problem that requires a movement that you do not yet understand, or a movement that is understood but beyond your current strength threshold (100 percent effort). This is your project move.
4. Try the project move in isolation for no more than 8 attempts, whether it goes or not. You may talk with others for beta if the move is misunderstood. But sometimes the best way to learn these moves is to just to try many options and wait for the “click”. The “click” can be actually making the move, or just getting SO close that it now makes sense. Ultimately, you are learning how much power the move takes and exactly how to employ that power (i.e. position of feet, center of gravity control, path the hands and hips take to the next holds, tenseness upon thrutch and catch, etc.)
5. Now choose two problems in your flash grade (about 30 to 50 percent effort) and climb them up and down. If you have to jump down, do 5 divers as punishment!
6. Now is the time to have a quick snack to keep the stoke high because the power phase is hard!
7. 50 burpees, broken into two sets.
8. 50 body squats, broken into two sets.
9. Yogasana!

Recovery: As usual, high-protein and vitamin-rich foods consumed directly after a workout with plenty of water are the best way to ensure that every bit of potential has been gained and that your body will be rested and ready to work hard again in two days! Now is the time to consider adding a multi-vitamin to your daily routine to guarantee you are not depleted of essential micro-nutrients that heavy activity requires. Some of the most important micros for adult athletes include necessary electrolytes such as magnesium, potassium and sodium. These nutrients enable correct brain-muscle communication, water processing, and may even promote general relaxation for more thorough recovery and treatment of muscular hypertrophy (over training). Filling holes in our diet can feel like magic and will usually help us avoid using chemicals to treat pain or to aid in relaxation. These chemicals can often be counter-productive in the long term but may be useful on occasion. I do recommend a half cup of black coffee before power or power-endurance phase workouts, however. This is because the small caffeine boost is enough to kickstart thermogenesis (warm muscles) and fat burning but not enough to produce a “crash” effect. This is not necessary but it may provide some athletes with an edge to create more power and get more out of each workout.

Get yourself in line and train hard and recover well! These workouts are made to force us into a tough routine. Don't give up on it! I guarantee your climbing technique and overall strength will improve by first understanding what movements you need to learn by watching advanced climbers surmount hard problems and routes, and then emulate and do the reps! Most of the time you will fail! Just like they failed ten, twenty, a hundred times before they finally latched and the move "clicked". Stick with it. The reps make us stronger physically and the failures make us stronger mentally! Keep crushin' my friends! Comment with questions or suggestions!