Hello guys, I've been surfing for years and I want to share what I learned along the way. So here are a few advices I wish I knew at the beginning. Enjoy!

1. The dangers of the surfing spot

First thing first before going in the water: Where will you leave the spot when the tide is high one or two hours later? In the middle of the rocks, where the waves are now smashing?
The same thing applies if the tide is getting low. Will you be able to go ashore in shallow waters where the waves are now closing out on the reef?
It's better to think about it before getting trapped in the ocean.
So ask locals surfers about the dangers of the spot you’re going to surf : hidden rocks at high tide, sharks in some countries, rip currents, difficult exit at low or high tide.

Here is an example of surfers trapped by the rising tide in Biarritz, France:

2. How to perform a perfect take-off

That’s a basic, but many beginners miss all their waves and the pleasure of surfing because they don’t know how to pop up correctly on their surfboard. You need to train on the floor to execute your take-off in the blink of an eye once you’re in the water. Practice, practice, practice! Trust me, it’s not wasted time.

In the video below, from 3′41 to 4′47, the guy talk about the “chicken wing” take-off. It’s the technique used by pro surfers John Florence and late Andy Irons. It’s the only serious technique to use in my humble opinion to pop up with a good balance on your surfboard and avoid turbulence from the start.

Here is John Florence performing this technique at 14′24 in the video:

3. How to prevent waves to split your surfboard in half

The falling lip of a wave applies a phenomenal force on rigid objects. If the wave is to big to duck-dive under it with your surfboard, then watch if no one is behind you, put your surfboard aside, parallel to the wave and dive. It will prevent your board from being broken.

4. How to warm up before getting in the water

Almost every surfers I encounter on the beach don’t warm up. That’s stupid. First, warming up prevent injuries. Secondly, once you’re warmed up you’ll be a 100% of your capacities on the first wave. Why wait 10 waves to be able to surf at your best? Finally, when warming up, you accumulate heat that allows you stay longer in cold waters.

Here is a good warm up routine:

5. How to keep in shape for the next surfing session:

It’s hard to train for surfing when there is no waves. Swimming and skateboarding are good complementary activities to practice paddling and balance out of the water. Yoga is also good for balance and general fitness.

Finally, always keep in mind that the best surfer is the one having the most fun.

I hope those advices will help you. See you in the water!