MY FIRST TIME IN PORTUGAL
I just got back from Lisbon, Portugal. It was my first time ever in Portugal, let alone Lisbon, if you can believe that. I'd been wanting to go for a while now. Apart from being a major European city, it's just one of those places that's packed with so much history, good and bad, that's been on my list for such a long time. Lisbon is also very close to London, relatively speaking, and very easy to get to. It's a short direct flight and there are no visa requirements to worry about.
In addition to this, Portugal has some of the most favourable crypto laws in the world, which got my attention a few years ago. So when I had a little time on my hands, Lisbon was an easy choice.
I took a very early morning flight from London. I did that on purpose because I could maximise the day there by arriving so early. Besides, the ticket was cheaper too. It was a smooth flight and I even dozed off for about half an hour. Anyone that has flown Ryanair knows that's a miracle in and of itself.
The airport at Lisbon was pretty much what I expected. European airports tend to be a little vintage with ageing infrastructure. It looked pretty much like any airport I'd see in Spain, Italy or Greece - well organised, clean, but vintage.
There were the usual smokers just outside the automatic doors, which meant that there was a hint of cigarette smoke smell in the arrival lounge. Transport to town was clear and easy with well defined sections for taxis, buses and the Metro.
I almost always take a cab to my accommodation when I'm new in a place. There was no way I was going to pay tourist rates though, so I just called an Uber. The driver said he couldn't drop me at the destination, so I had to walk for a couple of minutes through a very hilly narrow road to the apartment.
Lisbon's undulating terrain was one of the initial surprises for me - that is, the hilly landscape of Lisbon. I wasn't prepared for it at all. I've been to parts of Europe with that sort of landscape but I didn't realise Lisbon was like that. It reminded me a little of Napoli. Thankfully I like to walk and do have strong legs, so I coped ok.
Unexpected cleanliness contrary to preconceived notions was another shock, I have to admit, as Lisbon revealed itself as a remarkably clean city - relatively speaking. The streets, squares, and alleys were much cleaner than in London, at least in the parts I was stying in and in the city centre. Usually the inner city is the dirtiest part of the city. Maybe London is just really dirty and my expectations were influenced by that. Also, all my life, I've been hearing about how "dirty" the cities in Portugal are. I don't know where this notion comes from, but I certainly didn't see any of that. Sure, there were some overrunning rubbish bins here and there, but you see those everywhere in the world. I also noticed that the streets are power-washed every day - something that I don't see in London. The city is old and has some run-down buildings and architecture, but it's NOT "dirty" there.
The weather in mid-November turned out to be a delightful surprise too. I don't know why, but I was expecting it to be a little dull and miserable, like London, but only a little warmer, at this time of year. Instead it was mild to warm with adequate sunshine. In fact I only needed by hoodie in the early hours of the morning and some evenings. Otherwise a t-shirt was just fine, especially since I was expending so much energy walking up and down the hilly roads.
I go into more detail about my first impressions of Lisbon in the above video
The Waterfront in Lisbon is very charming. Exploring the picturesque promenade, if you can call it that, was a highlight of my Lisbon adventure. The blend of historical charm and maritime beauty offered a mesmerising backdrop. The Tagus River, lined with colourful buildings and historic landmarks, created a postcard-perfect scene. I loved the way the city is designed - opening up into the waterfront. It makes crowd management very easy and safe. There were many tourists there, but it didn't feel overwhelming like in Trafalgar Square, for example, because of how much open flat space there is there.
Charming Squares! As already mentioned, Lisbon's squares, adorned with unique architecture and vibrant energy, became delightful spots for soaking in the city's cultural essence. Rossio Square, in particular, stood out with its cobblestone patterns and the majestic Dom Pedro IV statue at its centre. It reminded me of Trafalgar Square, as mentioned already, only more accessible. At the time I was there, it was being prepared for Christmas festivities with Christmas market kiosks being decorated. It made me wish I could be there in December to see how magical it would be.
The architecture – Churches and Cathedrals. Like many European cities, Lisbon has a rich cultural and religious heritage that can be explored through visits to its ornate churches and cathedrals. The São Vicente de Fora Church and Lisbon Cathedral offered glimpses into the city's intricate history and architectural prowess. Unfortunately this can be bitter-sweet since the church itself was responsible for some tragic historical events, but one can still admire the physical marvels in total awe.
Getting around Lisbon was an adventure in itself, with the iconic trams, efficient metro system, and bustling buses providing a comprehensive glimpse into the city's transportation dynamics. Tram 28, winding its way through historic neighbourhoods, was a particularly nostalgic and scenic ride. I took it once in day time and once at night to experience the city in both settings. It was quite popular so it was packed both times with tourists, even though locals actually use it as regular transport.
Most of the time though, I walked pretty much everywhere. Like central London, and even more so, things are pretty close by. Everywhere is a short to medium walk, which I'm more than capable of doing. In fact, because of this, and due to the undulating landscape of Lisbon, I set two "personal bests" on my apple watch activity app. One was for most calories burnt in a day and the other for movement activity 😂. As such, even though I ate a lot of sweets and high calorie stuff, I actually lost weight when I got back to London. Win win win.
Sintra was a must. A day trip to Sintra allowed me to immerse myself in the fairy-tale landscapes and architectural wonders that the UNESCO World Heritage site has to offer. From the colourful Pena Palace to the mystical Quinta da Regaleira, Sintra was a captivating escape. The closest thing to Sintra in my past trips was Sorento in Italy. Sintra is so charming really. I slightly regretted not spending one of the evenings there so I could explore it for longer.
I had local tour guides offering to drive me up to the palace on the mountain, as is usual in most similar attractions around the world, but I opted to walk all the way up to it. The experience was similar to going up the hill in Prague to see Petrín Lookout Tower. The route includes mountain nature, a café in the middle of nowhere, rock climbing and a Moorish castle.
Belém was the other trip I made. Exploring Belém provided a journey through history, with its iconic landmarks such as the Belém Tower and the Jerónimos Monastery. I actually didn't go into the monastery, but just enjoyed the ambiance from outside. The area around it was actually more interesting to me - including the waterfront, Belém Tower, and the "illuminated fountain". The Pastéis de Belém bakery was also quite popular, but I didn't get to taste the famous tarts there. I had that at the church overlooking the city centre.
It doesn't count as a day trip, per se, but I maximised the final day by exploring some outer parts of Lisbon city that weren't in the centre or Alfama. I took a walk through some very picturesque residential neighbourhoods, especially on the way up to the castle that overlooks the city centre, and a church nearby, from where one of the most breathtaking views of Lisbon can bee had. The time I spent there was made special by one of the most talented street performers I've ever seen! He goes by "Once.Again.Loops" on Instagram if you want to check him out.
Having been a foggy morning, I could see where the fog had gone. In the distant clouds, from such a high vantage point, I could see the tips of the Abril Bridge pop out. A fog is indeed a cloud that has touched the ground, so when it's foggy, you're literally inside a cloud. Sadly the limitations of my smartphone mean't I couldn't capture the kind of image I wanted, but I caught a few anyway. It was the same earlier that morning when I awoke and saw the dove perched on a rooftop. It was the one I wrote about in this post.
Chasing sunsets on a boat. I missed the opportunity for a sunset boat trip. Imagining the sun setting over the Tagus River would undoubtedly have been a breathtaking experience. I did see the sunset though, next to Belém tower but somehow I think the experience would have been more magical on a boat.
Barrio Latino for a bit of Latin dancing. The bar is in a district that has a lot of bars and a buzzing nightlife. I did actually go, but decided not to go in after speaking to the person at the door. She said the even there that night wasn't what I was expecting, so I decided to walk back through the city instead.
Crypto Event. I was there during the world famous "Web Summit" in Lisbon and I had somehow secured a ticket. I popped in and had a chat with some of the presenters and attendees, but I missed the crypto related talks sadly.
Back home in London now and it's cold. I'm sure the 18-22 ºC temperatures in Lisbon have made it feel colder for me here in London, but I sort of wish I was still in Lisbon. I miss the weather and the architecture. I have to say though, I wasn't particularly blown away by the food. I probably didn't get a chance to indulge in some proper Portuguese food, but the stuff available en masse to the tourists isn't anything to write home about. I was expecting a little more. I've had amazing experiences in Spain, Greece and Italy when it comes to food. Perhaps if I got to taste the legendary sardines, that would have been memorable.
I would go back to Lisbon at some point, but I'd probably prefer to visit another city in Portugal when the time comes. Perhaps somewhere in the northern part. I like to visit places I've never been, though, so perhaps that was it for Lisbon. Overall I was very impressed by the city and it more than met my expectations - it vastly exceeded them.
Peace & Love,
Adé
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