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I can't start this blog without mentioning the Hiker's Hostel. It has become my home for next few days to come. I was presented with only two reasonable options anyways and I have decided to check in here. It was truly the right decision. Being positioned on top of the hill overlooking the city it is really baring the right name. It is in fact quite a walk just to get there. Summer temperatures kicked in recently and I sweated on my way up. Quickly running through the city I didn't even stopped to make a photo. That was mission for later. The local manager called Dave accommodated me with all his kindness. He is a true a traveler himself and we shared valuable life lessons over cup of tea. It turned out to be the whole afternoon. Sometimes all your plans must go aside to be able to embrace the moment. So I have stayed until evening chatting with him on the lovely hostel terrace. Around six thirty it was time to hit the town with my camera loaded.

The gate of Hiker’s Hostel resembles an old tavern.

First bunch of Japanese tourists already arived.

I guess the main tourist season has already well started. There is however interesting mix of travelers. Apart from typical Japanese groups with their guides there are sizable numbers of Romanians as well. In fact the most foreign number plates were holding the letters RO... Nevertheless old cobbled road brought me back down to where everything happens. The main road is being used for all sorts of parades, mostly by Bulgarians showing off their new Mercedes and Harley's of all sorts. My first plan was the local fortress, which is the dominant symbol on all the postcards. If it's photogenic I can't be missing. So I have rushed towards it only to find out there is an entry fee and the gate closes at eight o'clock which gave me effectively one hour of time. Plus I am a low cost tourist and I don't usually visit old buildings that require entry fee. So I have made plenty of cool pictures with my zoom camera anyways.

Local Bikers are cruising through the city like knights with their horses centuries ago.

Miniature of the local fortress - almost as picturesque as the real one.

Tsarevets Fortress in Veliko Tarnovo the old Bulgarian capital.

The streets were in fact mega busy already. Not that walking around would be an issue, but some folks are just slower than others and I was constantly trying to overcome somebody while checking the traffic at the same time to avoid being ran over by bus or posh BMW. After nearly three years of lockdown it was a great feeling seeing people walking out freely once again. Local shops offer everything between wooden samurai swords and paintings of Bulgarian countryside. However it is important to note that unlike many other massive tourist destinations there are still many buildings around with no purpose, waiting until somebody rescue them or they fall apart totally.

Busy streets of Veliko Tarnovo being monitored by a chilled looking guy enjoying his craft beer. — Busy streets of *Veliko Tarnovo* being monitored by a chilled looking guy enjoying his craft beer.

Flag is covering some ugly graffitty in the town center.

These posters are memories of those that passed away.

Is this some dead end of the Chinnese wall?

Just one example of a space waiting for the right owner to bring a new life to it.

It is in fact quite a big place and the mountainous terrain is creating amazing views from the lucky house owners.

Next I was headed to the street overlooking the river. With much less cars than on my way to fortress it become actually very enjoyable walk passing by many restaurants, hotels and terraces integrated to the mountain. Some of the buildings seem like mushrooms that popped up in the lush forest. Everything appears to be in total peace and exactly at the place it was supposed to be built at. The decorations of the houses are phenomenal. Be it the wooden balconies or some colorful decorations it all gives an impression of a ferytale.

Last destination during my golden hour tour was kind of an island on the river holding a massive monument. It repesents the Assen dynasty which led medieval Bulgaria from the Byzantine occupation back to independence and eastern European power. As a former Capital city those rulers could't possibly found more suitable location. Surrounded by something like European jungle of a sort the town become one big fortress allowing them to survive and strive in the coming years. It might have been a good decision to build the new capital city Sofia and not ruin this place with over development.

Only time will tell if some form of gentrification or cultural degradation will take place here, but at the moment of writing it looks like Veliko Tarnovo is on the right path. All the best, Global Local

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