Every traveller should start his visit to South America from Peru, a fascinating and diverse country that offers a kaleidoscope of attractions that leave an indelible mark on everyone's memories.
If you also look at the geography of Peru, you can see how the coastal regions are clearly separated by the Andes from the inland regions, creating a territory that ranges from the desert to the Andean zone and ends in the forest: desierto, montaña y selva.
The Capital Lima
The capital Lima is a huge city of ten million inhabitants, founded by the Spanish conquistadores on the banks of the Rimac River, from where it later took its current name. At the time, it was the capital of the Spanish viceroyalty under the name Ciudad de Los Reyes, to honour the sovereigns who had financed the expedition. Despite two earthquakes, in the 17th and 18th centuries, and two subsequent reconstructions, the city centre still retains the Spanish influence, with the balconies of the wooden palaces in the Sevillian style and the interior patios. And the Baroque-style churches, such as the Iglesia de la Merced, the Monasterio de San Francisco and that of Santo Domingo. The heart of the city is the Plaza de Armas, or Plaza Mayor, where the government palace and cathedral are located. In the Barranco district, we find a bohemian atmosphere reminiscent of Montmatre in Paris, while in Miraflores, a new residential district, we find clubs with music and restaurants to enjoy the renowned Peruvian cuisine. Finally, the port suburb of Callao, from where Spanish ships laden with treasures departed, was in the early 1900s a holiday resort for Lima's wealthy class, but has now been revitalised as a district with trendy bars and renowned restaurants.
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The coastal area of Paracas and the Huacachina Oasis
After a few days exploring the city of Lima, the real journey into Peru that a traveller has in mind can begin. The second stop can be reached by scheduled bus, or with a private driver on organised trips, and in about 3½ hours you arrive in Paracas. We are in the heart of the country's coastal desert region, the result on the one hand of the Humboldt Current, which generates a drop in ocean water temperatures that reduces evaporation, and on the other hand of the barrier placed to the east by the Andes that does not allow moisture to pass through. The consequence of this is low rainfall, coastal deserts, and barren vegetation. Despite this, the coastal strip is the most populated area in Peru. From Lima to Paracas, a section of the Panamericana runs through exactly these deserts.
In this area there are three attractions where a visit is 'obligatory'. Wake up early in the morning for the boat cruise from the port of Paracas to the Ballestas Islands. This small archipelago of islands is in the heart of the Humboldt Current from which a teeming of life ensues, from the first link in the chain, the plankton, which means an abundance of fish and from which the rest follows. Indeed, seabirds abound on these islands, the sea is full of sea lions, and it is a fishy place for local fishermen. Shortly after departure, the boat stops in the sea at some distance from the coast, from here one can see in all its grandeur the famous Candelabra, the famous geoglyph, probably an ancient signal for boats, but obviously shrouded in mystery. When you arrive at the Ballestas, you will be fascinated by life. If you are lucky enough to have a fishermen's boat pulling up their nets nearby, you will have the chance to spot enormous sea lions swimming around the boat. You really cannot imagine such a number of sea birds. On the islands there are still the remains of the factories that used to collect bird guano, a top-quality and very profitable natural fertiliser, so much so that in the 19th century it sparked off a war against Spain. Today these factories are ruins, and guano collection is regulated by the Ministry of Agriculture and only carried out every eight years.
In the afternoon, excursion to the Reserva Natural de Paracas, a vast desert area stretching inland from the sea. How could one not be struck by the contrasting colour of the sea, with the red of the beach and the amber yellow of the desert! In the interior, on the other hand, you drive along a road that appears to be paved, but is actually a salt road. In fact, salt is mined in the area, and the means of transport, over the years, by gradually dropping the salt and passing over it, have ended up compacting it and creating a slab that looks like a real asphalt road. A photo along this road is a must! All that remains is to continue on to the next stage, namely Nazca. Actually, it is better to take a bus in the evening and in a couple of hours you arrive in Ica, and use the rest of the day for a visit to the Huacachina Oasis, without a doubt the most fun and adrenaline-pumping day of the entire trip! If you are not on an organised trip, upon arriving in Ica there are several agencies that offer this excursion and will even look after your luggage while you do so. Huacachina is a huge expanse of sand with huge dunes, at its heart it has a small pond and around it an avenue, here you can also stay for the night, but if time is limited it is still worth a visit. Powerful dune buggies chase each other across the sand, from dune to dune, and once at the top they stop, allowing you to sand-board down. Dune after dune, the excursion lasts until the sun begins to set, at which point another spectacle begins, that of the sunset which, I assure you, takes your breath away!
The mysteries of Nazca
Next, by bus, you arrive in Nazca in the evening, ready to take a stroll through the town centre and choose a small restaurant for dinner.
Aerial view of the "Monkey", one of the most popular geoglyphs of the Nazca Lines, which are located in the Nazca Desert in southern Peru. The geoglyphs of this UNESCO World Heritage Site (since 1994) are spread over a 80 km (50 mi) plateau between the towns of Nazca and Palpa and are, according to some studies, between 500 B.C. and 500 A.D. old. - source wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nazca_Lines
Nazca was inhabited by the Paracas civilisation even before the Nazca civilisation, but it was the latter that left humanity the eigmantic Nazca Lines. As skilled farmers were able to bring water across the desert, it is believed that the lines are part of a propitiatory rite linked to fertility and the vast system of canals with which they managed to bring water into the desert. This remains an insufficient hypothesis to remove the mystery that contributes to the fascination of the lines. For the overflight, one must hope that the wind is not strong, otherwise it is unlikely to be possible. In this case, however, there are stations that allow observation to get an idea of the lines. For this reason, one usually never books a flight over the Nazca Lines in advance, but, if conditions permit, one goes to the airport and waits one's turn, paying the fee and the cost of the flight directly on site. The small Cessna planes with which the lines are flown over are sensitive to gusts of wind and so there is some dancing during the flight. Those who usually suffer from motion sickness might feel a little sick during the flight. In any case, it is a real experience, one of those that make the trip worthwhile!
Arequipa
In the evening departure by bus from Nazca to Arequipa. The journey takes the whole note and we arrive early in the morning at our destination, the buses are comfortable and it is possible to stretch out the seat to sleep, the only advice is to provide adequate clothing to cover yourself well because of the air conditioning. Arriving in the morning in Arequipa probably the best thing to do, once in the hotel, is to have breakfast served for an extra charge. This is the first stop at altitude, we are at 2,300 metres, so it is necessary to take it easy to start acclimatising to the altitude. The city lies at the foot of the El Misti volcano, and over the centuries has suffered numerous earthquakes that have not, however, affected Arrequipa's charm. Called Ciudad Blanca, after numerous destructions due to earthquakes, the citizens began to use a white, porous rock, of volcanic origin and abundant in the surrounding area, built low buildings with thick walls at the base to give greater stability. The town centre is really worth a visit, there are numerous churches, and then there is the main square. It is worth visiting the Monasteiro de Santa Catalina, a veritable citadel within the city, built by a widow who donated all her possessions and took vows. In addition to the monastery buildings, the lanes, fountains and brightly coloured walls are characteristic. Also worth a visit is the Museo Santuarios Andinos in Arequipa, which houses the famous mummy Juanita, a 12-14 year old girl who was probably sacrificed to the gods. She was preserved through freezing, and the museum was built precisely to exhibit her. Before reaching the room where it is kept, we watch a film about its discovery and then go through an exhibition of the various artefacts related to this discovery. Very interesting indeed.
Our stay in Arequipa allows us to acclimatise, and the following day we are ready for an interesting stretch of the journey, on the road, driving along scenic roads that allow us to simply admire what the route has to offer. The final destination is Chivay, from where we leave the following day to arrive at Cruz del Condor and admire the flight of these fantastic animals. We travel along the Carretera Norte, skirting the Chachani Volcano until we arrive at the Vigogne Nature Reserve. These animals are reared in the wild in huge enclosures, which can be up to 1000 hectares in size. Every two years they are rounded up and sheared, and then left in the wild again. The wool obtained from them is highly prized, and Peru is famous for its handicrafts, certainly among the most sought-after souvenirs by travellers. Anyone who has been to Peru not only keeps those garments, but also has photos taken during the trip wearing jumpers or hats with the typical Peruvian decorations. On the way, of course, we stop for a break and to drink a coca infusion and continue via Las Lagunillas de Toqra y Patapampa, the Mirador de los Andes from where we can admire the Ampado snowfield. Once in Chivay, you could opt for a tour of the pueblo, or we recommend going to the thermal baths, nothing luxurious but definitely a nice experience at high altitude (3,635 m.a.s.l.), with the fresh air and warm water. In the evening, we usually attend a dinner with a typical show included.
The next day we set off early in the morning, after breakfast we are directed to the Mirador de la Cruz del Condor. The carretera runs parallel to the Colca River, and from time to time we stop at various points to admire the view, the Colca Canyon is in fact the third most visited tourist attraction in Peru, and is one of the deepest canyons in the world, the drop reaches 3,354 metres in places. This difference in altitude generates a different climate at the base than at the highest altitude, in fact at the base there is an almost tropical climate and the tribes living at the bottom were dedicated to the cultivation of maize, while at the top, with colder temperatures, the populations were dedicated to the breeding of alpacas from which they obtained wool. When we reach the mirador, all we have to do is enjoy the view, photograph the monument, take a walk along the paths that descend to various viewpoints, but above all admire the majestic flight of the condors. A magnificent animal, rarely seen flapping its wings, it takes advantage of the updrafts to soar. The great thing is that the mirador is at altitude and the condors fly around there, it really is a spectacle, like being in a documentary. The hike to the Mirador de la Cruz del Condor can be challenging, not all the roads are paved and the altitude often exceeds 4,000 metres, so you need to acclimatise and take things very slowly. After the hike we return to Chivay in time to catch a bus to Puno on Lake Titicaca, where we will spend the night.
Lake Titicaca
The next day we wake up very early in the morning, a full day awaits us. At 7am we are already on the boat, which first takes us to an island floating on the lake. These islands are formed by a special floating aquatic plant, and anchored to the seabed. They follow the wave motion of the lake like boats. It was formerly the custom of the ancient Uro people from Bolivia who took refuge on these islands from the attacks of the Incas. This population is now extinct; the last descendant of this ethnic group disappeared in the 1970s. Today, an Aymara-speaking population, also pre-Inca, replaces the ancient Uros on the lake. Totora is used to build not only the floating islands, but also huts, boats and some tools. It is also used to insulate the island from humidity, with a floor cloth that is replaced every three months because it tends to rot. After an hour or so spent on a floating island, we sail back to Taquile. Taquile is an island an hour's boat ride away from Puno. Around 2,000 people live there and maintain traditional customs and traditions, such as the processing of wool for weaving traditional clothing, like the headgear the men wear. There are no means of transport on this island, so it feels like a journey back in time, everyone goes full on the island's 500 uphill steps and continues to barter. Once at the top, the view becomes wide and we better appreciate the vastness of Lake Titicaca. Before returning, we break for lunch and drink the inevitable coca infusion.
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Cusco, Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu
We are now in the highlight of our trip to Peru. In the evening we take a bus from Puno towards Cusco, travelling comfortably all night. Cusco is the main city of the Inca Empire, and it is truly a beautiful city where you can organise your own excursions, managing them directly on site and according to your preferences. The city preserves pre-Columbian vestiges, the Iglesia de Santo Domingo is built on the foundations of the most important temple of the Sun in Tahuantisuyu, ancient Cusco, probably the most impressive place. Then you can admire in Calle Hatun Rumiyoq, the wall with the stone of the twelve corners, perfectly fitted without any cracks, as well as outside the city in the archaeological site of Saqsaywaman, absolutely a must to visit, where there are huge blocks with which the Incas built the walls, which fit together perfectly. Not a single sheet of paper fits, still a mystery as to how they did it.
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Cusco is also the starting point for visiting the Sacred Valley, a river valley carved by the Urubamba River. Travelling through this valley takes us to a succession of pueblos that lead to an Inca atmosphere. Maras and its salt mines, where until a few decades ago some 400 families lived off the extraction of ore. Chinchero, a village known for its wool processing. Moray, famous for its terraces in concentric circles, where the Inca cultivated 'in layers'. In addition there are minor pueblos, such as Pisac, Urubamba, Raqch'i, all of which would deserve a visit, but we know that time is a tyrant and it is time to leave for Machu Picchu. The visit to the Sacred Valley then ends in Ollantaytambo, another pueblo that deserves a visit, but it is also enough to sit in the main pizza and observe the locals. When the time comes, we head to the Ollantaytambo train station to catch the train to Aguas Calientes, the last outpost before Machu Picchu. The train runs parallel to the Rio Urubamba and is a tourist train with part of the roof made of glass, which also allows a wide view of the rocky mountain ridges we cross. After arriving in Aguas Calientes and depositing our luggage at the hotel, the first thing to do is to buy tickets for the shuttle that takes us up to Machu Picchu the next morning, and then we are free to enjoy the vitality of the pueblo, the centre and the small bars.
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The next morning we wake up very early, the shuttles begin shuttling almost at dawn between the Agusa Calientes bus station and the entrance to the Machu Picchu site. One enters one of the seven wonders of the modern world with not a few expectations and curiosity, but punctually expectations turn out to be little compared to reality and curiosity amply repaid. Even today, it is not known whether the complex was a fortress, a shrine or a city, or all of these things together. Terraces, streets, buildings, plazas, it feels like walking through the city in its splendour. Machu Picchu means Old Mountain, and is the counterpart to Huayna Picchu, or Young Mountain, which would be the spur of the famous photo we find on the web. It is possible to climb Huayna Picchu, but you need to be willing to climb many steep steps, and you also need to make a reservation as there are only two ascent rounds for a maximum of 200 people. The climb is very fascinating and takes about an hour, the view is fantastic, the path is steep but shrouded in vegetation, truly a unique experience.
Lost at over 2000 metres between the clouds and the sky and covered by forest vegetation, advanced after the decline of the Inca Empire, it was only discovered in 1911 and has since become Peru's biggest attraction as well as one of the most famous places in the world. The fascination of Machu Picchu is heightened by its mystery, the day of visiting the site, despite starting very early, passes so quickly that it is almost a shame and that alone would be worth a trip to Peru!
Once the day of visits to Machu Picchu is over, we take the bus down to Aguas Calientes, all that remains is to pick up our backpacks and head to the train station. Cusco does not have a passenger train station, only a freight station, which is why we arrive in the suburb of Poroy. In some sections the train goes at walking pace because it passes through towns. Once in Poroy, we return by taxi to Cusco, last supper and last night in Cusco. The next morning we have a domestic flight back to Lima and from there the intercontinental flight to UK.
Peru is a country that deserves more than one trip, what is described in this trip is an unmissable first itinerary. To most it could turn out to be the best trip of a lifetime, especially for someone like me who is in love with South America, its people and customs, a mixture of pre-Columbian and colonial tradition.