We know the setting in the modern camera is very much, which certainly really helps us in facing various daily shooting conditions. But we also know there are still many camera owners who do not (want) to know the usefulness of these settings, so it is not used when facing conditions that are difficult or not ideal. We can just use the AUTO mode and the camera will think about what the best setting is for each condition, but we have no control over the setting and we never learn from it. In the end we may be dissatisfied with the outcome. AUTO mode is probably more suitable to use in ideal conditions only, such as enough light, the object does not move and the moment does not pass quickly. But when conditions become more difficult, lighting is challenging, colors of light sources are not easy, subjects keep moving, we can no longer rely on the AUTO mode in the camera. This time we will share many important tips to deal with various difficult conditions, of course by explaining what settings should be selected. It's good after reading, you also practice to better understand and can prove yourself. Let's start..
The first thing to remember is, do not use Manual exposure mode. Let the camera self-calculate its light and provide the proper value for us. Can use mode P (Program) or A / Av (Aperture Priority) or S / Tv (Shutter Priority). Also use Spot metering mode, then the metering measurement key to the main object you want to photograph, this is done so that we can get the right measurement even though the light is difficult.
When we feel the camera's exposure settings are right, we can lock the settings by pressing and holding the AE-Lock button (the star symbol on the Canon camera, or the AE-L button on another camera). No need to wait long, after the thumb we hold this button immediately take photos to prevent the change of light again. Good luck.
Here is not one easy solution, because in fact the dynamic range of camera sensors can not match what we see. Then the camera always finds it difficult to capture all the dark lights in nature equally well. Usually what happens is the sky becomes too bright, or the main object becomes too dark. There are several camera settings that can be tried with plus minus respectively:
Adjust exposure compensation, usually compensated towards + (positive), suitable if we want the main object to appear bright but the background is forced to be too light / over (to restore detail in over area is almost impossible, but try to use RAW and set the highlight settings in though digital can sometimes help a bit)
The thing to remember here is to get a timing photo that fits, needed focus and drive continuous (continuous). In addition of course the shutter speed must be selected fast enough so that the object is frozen / silent.
Continuous drive can be selected in drive mode, usually the camera can take pictures starting from 4 photos per second is pretty good for shooting in a row. More advanced camera can even shoot up to 11 photos per second. To enable continuous focus select AF-C mode (on Nikon and Sony cameras) or AF mode to AI Servo (on Canon camera). Next we should aim for the object, press and hold half the jeptret button (or press and hold AF-ON button) then when the moment comes full press the snap button long enough to take many photos. Later choose from all the photos taken which the moment and timingnya most fitting.
Conditions like these we often face, and can be divided into two groups: can be assisted flash and not. Ideally we have an external flash that can be bounce to the ceiling so that light and natural light. To increase the flash power can also be ISO to ISO 800. But if the flash can not be used (either because it is prohibited or limited range) then the important thing is use maximum aperture (lens that can f / 2.8 or larger will be more embantu) and increase ISO is high enough (ISO 1600-3200) to make the photo so bright, shutter speed remains fast so that the moments that are photographed do not blur.
Although it looks bright, the above photos are taken outdoors that are less light. For that use of flash with bounce will help lighting. Do not forget because this outdoor activity is generally dynamic (moving), tips in condition 3 above like continuous AF mode sometimes still needed.
Especially in the cafe / restaurant / hotel generally deliberate giving warm lighting (yellowish tungsten lights) thus creating a dilemma when photographed. If we neutralize it as if in that location the light is white neutral (no warm impression), but if left yellow then the person in the photo color (skin, clothes etc) so not neutral. Example of yellow color neutralized so white, technically correct but so it does not look its original color:
WB shift can also be done if we already know want to bias the results of the final color in which direction: Green - Magenta or Blue - Red. Ideally the midpoint will give a neutral result if the WB setting is the same as the light source. But if we want to slide can also, by sliding to the right then the color tone will be more reddish. When the midpoint gives a result that is not neutral (eg due to disturbance of the blue color in the existing light) it is better WB shift is shifted to the right so that the end result is no longer blue. WB shift can also be used to create a deliberately different color, for example in a white misty area will be more unique when WB in sliding to blue.
Well that's a little tip taking pictures from me this time may be useful for us all, good luck and good luck. the spirit never stops working.
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