With an eight foot fence attached to monofilament line, and concrete posts on each corner. This fence has turned out to be quite stout, and looking forward to getting it filled with delicate plants that the deer would just love to munch on. I bought this kit from Deerbusters, they sell everything needed to assemble it. It took us around four or five days of full work to get it all built. Starting with pounding in the fence stakes, and then moving onto pouring concrete in three foot deep holes for the dual leaf vehicle gate and corner posts. And finally wrapping it all up with tension wire and hog ringing the fence into place.
Link to the kit I bought.
I bought the 500' kit with a rodent exclusion barrier at the bottom, a vehicle gate and a walk through gate. Cost me around $5000
We used most of it, and saved the rest of the kit and will use that to grow more vining plants.
The corner posts have a dead man brace system. This helps make lots of tension when tightening the wire that goes around the fence.
The posts are placed towards the tension point and backed up with a brick underneath.
We dig up a small area under the post and then lay a brick down and put the dead man brace back.
Tightening them all down we learned the bolts are not as tough as we hoped and one snapped right off. Luckily this only happened once during the whole setup.
As my farm hand works to set up the corners, I start building the small gate. Luckily we did not need to lay concrete for the one people walk through. But the one for vehicles needed concrete posts on each side.
The gate posts are the same as the corner posts, set in three feet of concrete.
The vehicle gate is twelve feet wide and uses a dual leaf system. That way we can open just one gate, for a small farm vehicle. Or both gates for something larger.
Attaching the wiring to the gate its mostly zip tied. But the long stretches are hog ringed. Using a tool that attaches the welded wire fence to the mono line.
We completed the fence in sections, as there were places we had to terminate the tension line and start on the other side of a gate. If we did the tension line in one long run we could not have doors or gates. So we did it in three sections instead.
All the hardware was provided in the kits for the driveway gate, we used socket wrenches to tighten.
A pole goes in the ground to keep one gate closed if you want. Also helps to keep them secured.
The rodent exclusion barrier can be seen at the bottom. It has a smaller mesh to it.
We wrapped the whole fence with the small mesh to keep things smaller than deer out.
As we finish the gated sections we move on to the final long stretch of fencing. We add tension to the wire so the fence can hang on it. We found we had to retighten a few times as the fence went up. Something we did not think about at first but interesting how the weight builds up over many hundreds of feet and once tight wire needs more wraps sometimes.
Checking the wire along the whole section was key, making sure it stays up high on the corner posts as those did not have eye bolts to hold in place.. Just the tension of the wire.
Moving around the eight foot welded wire fence was quite a lot of work. We found sweeping it with our foot as we rolled it onto the tension wire worked well.
We started having to walk a lot further to get inside the fence.. haha it sucked leaving tools just inside the fence and had to walk all the way around to get to them..
Lastly we staked down all the rodent exclusion barrier so they cannot climb under it.
After it was all done, I pulled my truck in and we cleaned up. Putting all the plastic wrappers and unused building materials in there.
We left a thirty foot opening so we can build a completely enclosed area for chickens, ducks and bees. We plan on attaching it to the gap and it will be a whole other module for the 1/3 area food growing area. We already bought the kit, just need to get to building it now the deer fence area is done.
