The feeling of boundless freedom, of chasing through the air, of approaching the ground at breakneck speed, of rising again, of being carried by the current of the winds, are all very physical impressions.

That's exactly it! It's not surfing itself, but the sensations it creates, which I know can be common to many activities.

Hahaha... I know that vow you make on holidays when you do something that feels good, and you come home and totally forget about it. Cold water is pretty awesome and invigorating though!