Although I have never surfed in my life and water is not my element at all, I can relate to your feelings very well. That special feeling of oneness and feeling one's own aliveness in connection with life as a whole, a very human quality that we are also still able to express!

I dream about it, often. I imagine most people do about things they love doing the most: skiing through white powder, flying over mountains, running along forest paths.

When I read your text and this passage in particular, I remembered my dreams that produce something similar: an unbidden aliveness and joy of being alive. I had some dreams where I was able to fly. The feeling of boundless freedom, of chasing through the air, of approaching the ground at breakneck speed, of rising again, of being carried by the current of the winds, are all very physical impressions.

These dreams were of such intensity that I have not forgotten them and so it is as if they really happened. HaHa!

I only liked cold water for a very brief moment. I was only 14 at the time and we were in Norway. Where the hut offered little comfort and the sink for freshening up in the morning only provided cold water. At first I was totally against it and thought it was terrible, but after a few days I got used to it and even resolved to wash myself only with cold water in the morning at home too. Nothing came of it. LOL

Your passion is clearly coming through and I hope and think it can inspire others to find theirs.