Color Challenge Friday Blue: In the Deep South - Hold Your Breath
Surfing is my life.. I live, eat and breathe it. My second biggest passion in life is photography and so I love to combine the two. On this particular day I went for a swim, to try capture the perspective of a surfer in the moment just as he/she duck-dives under a wave that is about to break on their head.
The sensation brings up great satisfaction of being cleansed by the ocean, as I pierce through the water experiencing an incredible force of energy, which is created by mother nature. Popping out the back of the wave without being tossed around is the greatest feeling..
On the other hand, when you are in the wrong spot and you enter the turbulent part of a breaking wave, it can be quite astounding how powerful water can be. The most important thing to do is simply relax, enjoy and come up to the surface once everything has calmed down.
This part of surfing can be the most strenuous, which leaves you feeling exhausted. The best thing to do is get back on your board and paddle back out to go catch more waves.