With my youngest in tow, I went on a quest to find a little known coffee place called the de Koffie Schenkerij (literally coffee pourer). In order to find it we must first find an old church as it sits on its grounds.
Strolling along the Amsterdam canals, one would be forgiven if they imagined themselves to be a 17th century citizen browsing around - not much has changed since then. We knew we were close when we heard the jolly church bells pouring out its tune - a clear indication that we were on the right path. Then we sighted the steeple protruding atop the canal houses - the old church guided our way.
Steeple of the Ouwekerk
The 13th century Ouwe Kerk (old church) stood proudly and imposingly across the bridge awaiting us. This historical church is a monument and has the accolade of being the oldest brick/stone building in Amsterdam as it was built in 1306.
Upon traversing the bridge - we would have been jarred out of any medieval reverie to today’s reality with the following signs.
As soon as I crossed the bridge, I spotted a small courtyard garden on the church grounds and a small sign which indicated that we had arrived at the coffee place.
However, I needed to earn my coffee and sweet treat - so we sauntered over to the church first. The majority of city churches are converted to discos, pubs or museums. This church is now the latter. The interior is quite impressive
and currently hosts an exhibition called “Garden of Scars” from a Ghanaian artist called Ibrahim Mahama. The exhibition links the colonial past of Ghana with some of the merchants, sailors, traders or prominent people buried at the church. For example, the famous artist Rembrandt van Rijn’s wife Saskia Uylenburgh (1612-1642) was buried here.
Artist memorial stone & original tomb of Rembrandt wife Saskia
There were approximately 60,000 graves stacked on top of each other when a renovation/exhumation occurred. The covers of the gravestones are still present and was used to create frottages (rubbings) which are artworks in the church.
an intricate gravestone
creepy but interesting rubbings
Even the stainglass windows connected the old and the new world as it depicts life from centuries ago.
Throughout the church are sculptures of bats hanging above or hidden - afterall this is indeed a grave yard.
From the initial wooden structure to a brick church - from catholic to protestant, iconoclasm to preservation - this location has many tales to tell.
Look at this impressive organ.
which can also be seen in this old painting.
A 17th century writer once said that the organ in the church entices people to think of carnal desires. Today it's a chaste reputation considering some of the neighboring activities. The church is located in the red light district - famous for its bikini clad ladies of the night.
In the area of the church called the High Choir,
I saw these seatings and the great details which depicted life during those times. I think you will enjoy them. Look closely.
wooden carving on the pews
However, now it was time to leave - the coffee shop was beckoning us. We left history and art behind for some sweet treats. Some readers familiar with Amsterdam might notice the nuisance - 2 words instead of one - coffieshop (for buying drugs of a more potent variety).
The 1517 sacristy or vestry was converted in 2013 to thé Koffieschenkerij(translation - coffee pouring or coffee shop.) It looks like only a charming little garden
but visitors to the museum and Amsterdammers, in the know, enjoy this hidden gem.
Entering the coffee shop, I was greeted with a smile from a waitress and the cakes displayed looked enticing.
The smell of coffee wafted throughout this cosy location. I have visited a few times. Sitting by the windows in the small attic, I could enjoy the charming garden and the beautiful city even on this wintry day.
Another time I sat downstairs, it was busy and not easy to get a photo in this small, cosy space.
The architecture reflected the old style of the church. However there is nothing old fashioned about this place - to order coffee and cake one scans a QR code for the menu and pays before a friendly waitress appears with the order.
Our treat felt well deserved. I took a double cappuccino and my daughter took the chai latte. It warmed and stimulated our interiors and was complemented by cheese cake with passion fruit topping and chocolate cake. Another time I had matcha and carrot cake.
I spoke with the friendly waiter and it was clear that they are passionate about coffee here. There was a good variety: not only cappuccino but also espresso, americano, cafe latte, macchiato, mocha, espresso with chai latte etc. I thoroughly enjoyed my coffee and the ambience of this cozy location. There was a nice buzz of conversation it was not mouse still as in the museum(church) but also not very loud. Everyone enjoyed the effect of their coffee and also the uniqueness of this location as heads could be seen turned around and looking upwards to the ceilings.
Upon departing - on the quaint cobbled street, we spotted this copper sculpture - you can decipher what it is and what you think of it.
I do not know anyone that knows this place. It feels like it's my special place - my hidden gem. At the time we visited we spotted no red lights in any windows but of course not every building is dedicated to the trade. I had to wonder however what the ancients would think. However, we know full well that the profession is as old as time itself.
Soon we were at the famous Dam Square - the 17th century palace was in front of us - with the 15th century Nieuwe Kerk (New Church) to its right. If there is an old church there must be a new one as well but that is a story for another time.
This is my response to The Coffee Shop Prompt #2.
All photos are my own
