🇬🇧 I’m embarking with this serie "STOP" in stories of a few stopovers. I won’t do them in order, just out of desire and to dust off some old memories.
🇬🇧 ... I resume here my story about my stopover at Maratua Atoll.
Little by little I also visit my mooring area to discover the surroundings of this small paradise. There is a small village where I sometimes go to exchange a few goodbyes and stretch my legs with a little jogging, and also the hotel run by two Germans and hosting a diving structure. The regularity of my visits entitles me to a few beers and the conversations that go with them. Between divers, it is quite naturally about diving conversations! I then learn that the area of the reef that I avoid due to a very strong current, the passage through which I returned by boat, is an incredible area to observe a surreal school of barracudas. At least that’s how my new German friends present things to me. Obviously diving during the strong phases of the current would be suicidal. They then explain to me their diving protocol with a low slack water launch, a 30-40min dive before the rising tide current starts to work, and a recovery of the divers inside the lagoon by their safety boat. All this seems very sensible to me, except that in my case, the diver, the captain of the safety boat, the instructor, it’s the same person... me. The Germans have understood well and are concerned to know that I should dive there alone in these conditions, offer to take me there. I do not say yes. I’m leaving thinking about it.
🇬🇧 The next day, the conditions are perfect, the lagoon is flat, the sun is shining brightly and low tide is expected at the end of the morning. Everything is perfect. I prepare my equipment and head towards the pass to observe. Unsurprisingly, the current is outward and strong. I wait. I go back for a walk along the drop-off and return to a few minutes from the low slack water. The current is now well lowered, the water is transparent. I can see the bottom of the pass and the beginning of have fallen. I’m still hesitating. Finally I realize that my annex no longer moves in the pass, it’s the slack. Suddenly, as I look at the transparency of the water, a huge black spot comes to position itself under the annex. I lean over with my mask to watch and observe a school of fish made up of thousands of barracudas. The occasion is too beautiful! In a few seconds I am in the water with my diving bottle on my back, my camera clipped onto my stab and the anchor of my tender in the last hand I have left. I go down the 15m as quickly as possible and circle the chain around a solid rock in the middle of the pass. I have an appointment here in 30 minutes before the current is too strong...
🇬🇧 I immediately head towards the drop-off, the barracudas are no longer there, I look for but no trace of the bench. The water is crystal clear, I enjoy it and the sun is shining very brightly. Then the sun stops shining, everything becomes dark, yet the rocks further ahead remain in the sun, I don’t understand. I raise my head reflexively to see where the sun has gone, and then find myself face to face with several thousand barracudas above my head hiding the sunlight from me. It’s just extraordinary. They surround me, encompass me, stay less than 2m from me, follow me, and give me some of the most beautiful photographs and some of the most beautiful memories of my life.
🇬🇧 30 minutes thus pass in the company of this group of fish of which I am now part. Then my palmage becomes more difficult and my balance requires more effort... I had forgotten the tidal stream. I need to get back to the anchor quickly. I manage to find it without too much difficulty, detach it from the rock to fix it on my stab and immediately find myself drawn towards the inside of the lagoon. I thus see the pass passing by 3m below the surface and at good speed pulled by my annex! 5 minutes later, I get my head out of the water, I see my sailboat a few hundred meters away and I have already lost sight of the entrance to the pass which is now more than a kilometer away. Incredible strength of the current. Tomorrow I go back!!!