Hi, today I bring you another bra model, I must clarify that in this case, as in the "Wide Triangle bra", the size 90 is traced and from there the short margin is made and the progression to the other sizes.
Well, as you can see in the image, in this case from the back "base" it is cut in half and each half should be lowered 1.0 cm. For the seam allowance, what you have to do is add 0.5 cm to the entire contour (orange line) and from there mark another 0.5 cm to the entire contour (green line).
Another thing that I would like to clarify is that in this image I made the back of the bra as it is done in other models, but the ideal is to make a full waist, as you can see in the image of the cut mold, the measurement for a size 90 is 64.0 cm long by 14.0 cm wide and mark the middle.
Once the cups are cut (I cut two of each one so that the seam is not visible) the necklines are sewn together, as seen in the image.
In this case I did not cut a 14.0 cm wide waist but because I joined two pieces of fabric and it was what I had. If they get the measure that corresponds better, but if not, they will be like me. To make it one length, join the two halves and leave the seams on the sides of the bra. In the event that you have to make a single seam to the "waist", you can leave it for one of the sides or for the back.
Once the cups are sewn in the middle, join the fronts and sew them (as I put before, that is if they cut two cups for each bust) and then turn it over, as seen in the picture.
To continue, place the cups at the waist starting from the center (as already marked before) outwards. Sew the cups on the reverse side holding it with an elastic strap.
The elastic must cover the entire length of the waist to give the bra firmness, in this case (size 90) the elastic must be 58.0 cm, that is, 10% less than the route to be elasticized.
In my case, the fabric I used was quite elastic, so I cut it with 10% less.
If they left the seam for the back, join it and from there measure 10.0 cm on each side to sew the straps, if the seams left them on the sides (as in my case), mark the middle of the back and repeat the same operation. And voila, the bra is finished. You can use elasticized lace, that gives a more sensual touch to the bra and remember that you have to elasticize the waist.
