12 June 1988
California, Day 1
The haze of the orange sand whipped across my face as I reached the beach this morning.
I've never seen such beautful surf. Sets rolling in like nobodies business. Barely another surfer in sight. Just myself and the ocean, ready to duke it out.
They say the state of California has an ellusive charm to it. I don't see that charm as being ellusive at all. I smell it every day. That salt air, the burning sun. My first day here will not be my last that's for sure.
After my surf session I drove around the coast a bit more. The convertable was a great option. The style makes up for the expense.
I drifted upon a dive bar. There were a couple surfers in there I got chatting to. There was also a girl called Annette. Never in my life have I stumbbled upon such beauty. They should cast moulds out of her.
I left the bar to come back to Tommy's. I still had Annette on my mind. I can already see what tomorrow is going to be. Surf, sand and that bar. Hopefully Annette is a regular.
Every now and again I write for 5 minutes continuously and do not stop until the timer runs out. What you read is a stream of words coming out all at once. No editing, no worrying. I find this creates amazing stories as you just have to let the words take you, rather than force them out. Enjoy.
