The happened last year when the cruise I was on docked at midday for an overnight stay ,before going to the Portuguese Islands. Maputo is the capital of Mozambique and was well known as a tourist trap, before the civil war. I had heard it was improving and worth a visit.
I had met a couple the night before who had been to Maputo before and invited me to join their little party. The cruise liner was selling packages for $50 to go and visit the market which I thought was a waste of money as I would walk it anyway.
I met the couple on the dockside along with what seemed like a large group of people. They then told me that they all agreed to go as long as I was coming. They had set me up as they needed some sort of security and I had been played. I am a lot bigger than most people so I could see their thinking but it did take me by surprise. The group I was now going with was about 50 strong and all getting on a bit in life. Soft targets would be an understatement.
We made our way out of the dock area and were immediately surrounded by masses of people begging and trying to sell you mementos. The ships arrival had not gone unnoticed as it towered above all the buildings. Thankfully the group agreed to travel in local taxis that looked as though they had no road worthiness at all. One couple asked me if I was going by taxi and I said no as it was safer on foot. They agreed and came with me I had no idea where the market was but it couldn't be that far away.
I spoke to a young boy and offered him money to guide us there and back but he would only be paid once we were back at the harbor safe and sound. He tried to take us off the main road down a side street and I refused. The rubbish was at least 5 m high on either side and looked very dodgy. I have never seen such filth in all my life and obviously they have health issues from this. The rats must be huge in this place. Each side street was the same with rubbish piled in bags up to the first floor.
We found the market after about a 20 minute walk but had noticed we were being followed by a group of individuals. If we crossed the road they would follow and were about 100 meters back following the same route. It was like a scene from a film except you are in it.The market was a total disappointment with over priced goods ,obviously waiting for the tourists off the boat that hadn't arrived yet. We spent about 15 minutes looking around but the rubbish was everywhere and discarded fish guts rotting in the gutters. The place was just a stinking second rate bazaar with nothing much of interest.
The ships tour parties started to arrive and noticed they all had armed guards and a high security presence. I told the other couple we should leave and make our way back to the boat as I had a few concerns. I paid the little boy as I new my way back and we left from a different entrance. The route back was going to be an express route with no stopping. The group that had been following us was outside the main entrance and spotted us as we crossed the main road but we had a good gap on them.
They followed us once again but gave up when we got closer to the harbor. We did a fast walk jog the whole way back and it wasn't pleasant. The ones that went by taxi had a great time besides one incident where a couple was robbed at knife point. It is not on my list of cities to revisit and glad to have seen it ,but happier to leave.
I have heard recently that oil has been found off the coast of Maputo so huge investment will pour into this place over the next few years but I won't be returning.
Image source. clubofmozambiqie.com
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