In this article I show details of this small tree, and how I improved the drainage by amending the top layer of soil.
Historical Details of This Tree
ID: 0019
Nickname: Jubilee
Type: ??? Unknown Species
Age: 5 years
Grown: yamadori
Last repotting: November 2, 2018
Wired: never
Past Article featuring this tree: A Tiny Tree by 
Below, in today's featured article, I'll be detailing my work on this tree from this past October, 2019.
Small trees like this one are usually very quick and easy to work on. Even on a job like this, I am happy to share and document the life of this tree in my care.
Watering Woes
Lately I noticed this tree was becoming difficult to water. Some of the water went inside the pot. Most of the water would run off the sides and wash away the fertilizer and some of the bonsai soil.
Sure, I could soak the whole potted tree into a tub of water and wait for the air bubbles to trickle out, and then lift it out to allow the water to drain from the bottom. Frankly, I don't have time for that every time the tree should be watered.
A tree with good soil is best watered with a watering can, to simulate rainfall passing down through the soil before it drains out into a nearby stream or river. This trains the tree to better adapt to the natural environment and climate, which will make the tree stronger if it has adapted well to the watering cycle.
Another advantage to using a watering can to water the tree, is it is easier to monitor problems with drainage like this. Anything that can clue the gardener in about a potential soil problem is good, because they can take action to remedy the situation before it causes problems for the tree.
The tree looks healthy enough. The soil seems to be turning mushy black on top. This could be due to a variety of factors. Mostly it is due to the fact that water is puddling on top and not draining well. It can cause rot and disease if left unchecked.
I can already see some blackish roots under the large surface root. These roots could be rotten, or they could be only rotten on the outside, and alive deeper underneath. They might even be healthy roots, coated in a layer of black dirt.
Today I will not be disturbing the roots, because this tree has a very small root system, and it appears to be healthy.
Soil Removal
Here I've scraped away the top layer of soil. Undearneath the top layer of gravel I also removed some unhealthy slimy soil. Rain and fertilizer often combines to create the slimy soil surface. Eventually wet soil will often evolve into a carpet of water-shedding moss.
Only 1/4 inch down, the soil became more gravely, and less soggy. It's still a little bit dark and soggy, but not nearly as bad as the top layer I removed.
At this stage the tree can also be watered to test the drainage. The water sieved through the soil very quickly for me, which is ideal.
Wire and Stick Method
Notice the small stick under the wire. I put this there when I transplanted the tree. The stick exists to help press the tree roots down firmly in a more gentle manner than the wire alone can manage. The wire ties the tree into position in the pot so it does not fall out or tip over.
Trees like to help held strongly, because healthy roots are protected from the sunlight and excess air.
New Soil Layer
Fresh pumice, a volcanic white rock has been poured to cover the top surface of the soil.
Water surface tension is so strong, it can sometimes reach up to a 1/4 inch high when it puddles up over the surface of a pot. With the pumice rocks being almost exactly that height, the surface tension of the water can more easily be broken by the rough edges of the porous rocks.
Pumice is not only good at breaking surface tension in water, it also retains water very well, and keeps the surrounding soil warmer. It does this best by trapping water vapor, which is perfect for slowly feeding small roots and insulating against the cold.
With the clean gravel at a soil line now below the surface of the pot, water will no longer puddle and spill over the edges.
From up close, the soil line also allows the viewer to examine the full base of the trunk as it splits into a major root.
Over time, this growing nebari flair will make the tree look very strong and sturdy.
The big clunky rock, I'll admit serves very little purpose. All of my trees are paired with a decorative rock if I can manage it.
To me, the tree is more harmonious in this way to have a silent neighbor to bunk with. This over-sized rock acts more like a paper-weight than a properly nestled in rock to match the tree. Still, I do like the almond color of the rock, which makes it blend in behind the tree rather than distract too much.
Marriage I imagine is sometimes a bit like a rock and tree, two total opposites getting along in life. One might be prettier or uglier than the other, but that is merely their atomic nature. Even the oafish rock offers some warmth and protection. The tree offers calming shade and a colorful spirit. Together they have more purpose in unity than they would if they were alone or still hidden beside their brothers and sisters.
Conclusion
Thank you for viewing another one of my "Getting to the Roots" articles, featuring bonsai trees in my backyard collection. There is one more tree I need to feature to complete this series, and then I'll be moving onto new adventures.
Next, I'm going to be getting started working on some new trees to add to my collection. Tree seeds and bare root trees will be featured within the next month or so. Then we should be back into Spring will all of my little trees ready to be photographed again with fresh new leaf buds and needles.
Photos in this post are all #originalworks by
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