(my setup)
The Pro edition of the 5d tactical 80% jig is totally worth the hefty $350 in tooling alone. The quality of the machining is that of a CNC.
----------------------------List of Materials----------------------------
-THE ROUTER JIG PRO MULTIPLATFORM (https://www.5dtactical.com/multiplatform-80-lower-jig-p/5d-pmj.htm) - $259.98
-ROUTER JIG PRO TOOL KIT (https://www.5dtactical.com/80-lower-jig-tool-kit-p/5d-pk300.htm) - $54.99
-A USED Makita RT0701C ROUTER (Found on OfferUp) - $50.00 (new it's $100.00)
-DAYTONA TACTICAL 80% LOWER RECEIVER AR-15 (https://daytonatactical.com/collections/80-ar-15-lowers/products/80-ar15-lower-receiver) - $54.95
-Shop-Vac 2021000 Micro Wet/Dry Vac (https://www.amazon.com/Shop-Vac-2021000-Micro-Wet-Dry/dp/B004UQVQ0I/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1529075532&sr=8-7&keywords=shop+vac) - $33.99
-GOODWILLSPECIAL END TABLE - $15.00
-LARGE FAMILY HEIRLOOM VICE - PRICELESS
----------------------------The Review----------------------------
The first time I pulled it out of the box I was amazed at how nice it looks, I didn't even want to use it at first. Assembly was a breeze with the included instruction manual with CAD models for references. I recommend using blue lock tight on the screws of the side plates, you will never have to remove these to insert and remove the 80% receiver. The hardest part would have to be drilling the router starting hole. (seen in the second pick) the bit is just on the edge of being too large to drill without a smaller guide hole, but it will work. The ability to remove the 80 from the jig allows one to complete the same step on multiple receivers at a time. (After taking any material out of an 80% receiver will officially makes it a firearm), reducing wear and tear on the screws of the drill guide and base pins to the 5d tactical while increasing efficiency.
(Finnished 80 that has been Cerakoted)
----------------------------Things That Can Be Improved----------------------------
Contrary to what the instructions say on cutting the trigger hole, I found that I can get a better result when I slow the speed of the router to 3 (out of 6 settings). it helps prevent vibration and flex when doing this operation. Applying more pressure downward than normal will also help minimize the chances of it "jumping".
Like I stated before, the first drilling step is a real bear. It would be nice to have an inset for the first drill guide to drill a small piolet hole for the larger drill. This will allow the second drill bit to cut more efficiently and reduce heat from the friction of it spinning on the tip and not cutting.
The final improvement would be to cut a relief on the endmill shaft so loos chips don't friction weld to the sides of the work area. These chips are hard to remove if you don't have a sandblast cabinet.
May do this modification my self if I can find something that will cut Carbide.
ps. i just ordered Adobe Premer elements so a vidio will be coming soon =).
