Jasper National Park: A fall fungi hike around Maligne Lake

What's up Peeps!

Well I thought I would break up my proverbial Hive tradeslady work week new potential book project and have a proverbial week-end get away. Of course it's a bit older and not of the actual week-end but I thought I would switch it up with a nice hike around one of my favorite lakes. But first, I picked a few brains, sent some links for some seasoned tradesmen preliminary opinion and shouted my little idea and turns out one knows an editor with much experience in turning blogs into books...How convenient...OMG.

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The trade is a small world full of connections into the strangest avenues. I might also be able to sucker him in to joining our Hive family with his own stories of whatever self-exploration and life experience...Maybe he can eventually have his book and read it too. 😅 I know, I'm such a nerd. That would be really cool if he did. He's a tradesmen and hobby photographer too...Can I finally hook someone to become the next Hive community part-owner like the rest of us? I know he would love it here if he took the time.

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Ok, now to the task at hand, the pretty stuff. I think this was during covid time and heavily discounted last minute hotels that became my specialty of the season. Work had been heavily disrupted and I also got really sick and was on my mobility recovery journey that took months. The best to get me moving around and building stamina was of course THE ROCKIES, otherwise at home I wouldn't move around much from always getting dizzy and out of breath. In the mountains, I was sure to put my big girl panties and do my best to see as much as I could regardless of my at the time reduced capabilities.

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Al the orange pine trees in the region is a result of long term fire suppression combined with the invasive pine beetle infestation killing and drying out the forest. One way or another, despite man's efforts, nature will continue to be nature and do what it has to do to regenerate a healthy ecosystem. One the day of our visit, there was forest and fire crews cutting down some of the dry and infected trees around the more commonly visited areas and parking to reduce the fire hazard in frequently visited areas giving a bit more time for people to escape in the event. Burning the infected wood helps eliminate larvae and reduce the numbers.

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I suppose, that was also the joys of being a saver and having a rainy day fund. In my ladybug days, I would advocate for 6 months worth of expenses to be my magic number. It has served me well turning a super 6 month looooooong rainy day into less stress during my forced down time and the financial ability to make the best of it while I wasn't fit for work physically. When you are finding normally $300 rooms suddenly for $60 last minute, I suddenly found some hidden source of energy to make my way there even if it was to just sit on a log or leaning against a tree sipping coffee listening to the morning birdies sing in symphony with the constant gentle hum of the flowing river.

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I wasn't vaccinated since I was naturally immune for at least the season and I wasn't allowed anywhere public, I still needed an escape and the forest was the perfect one. I like do do most of my excursions self-guided with a partner anyway, I didn't need all the fancy tours anyway. It opened up the budget to take even more trips and unusually cheap hotel escape deals in the future. The catch 22 was, these deals were last minute 3 day before travel type stuff so living close-by was an asset. Just book, plan the hikes or activities in the area while we have good city internet services then pack-up and go.

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Jasper National Park being 3 hours drive away and Banff being 5 with several other hours in narrow winding mountain roads thru a 200 year old pine forest as a drive in-between, I could reduce the hiking time and do wore driving around to as many locations. The first time being off from work at the leaf-peep color change time of year, I naturally wanted to go. From Banff to Jasper, I wanted the full touristy experience with everything in-between. It was gorgeous and since I'm generally working this time of year, I didn't know when the next opportunity to see the short lived vibrant season would arise. Once the leaves turn color here, it's probably about 2 to 3 weeks until they are bare. I have to take work when it comes and such is life, play time comes after a job well done despite what the landscape looks like at any given time, it's always pretty out there anyway.

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Maligne Lake is part of the same network from my previous Medicine Lake post. I will pull a ladybug move and include a link for those of you that may have missed it. It's truly worth the view and a magical landscape with so much natural activity and personal landscape discoveries to be made. the forest is full of hidden knowledge and concepts to learn. This place is no different. From it's natural attributes all the way to the history along with establishing a touristic history that stood the test of time and initiated the birth of Jasper National Park.
@ladyrainbow/medicine-lake-mystery-of-the-vanishing-lake

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I'm not sure what the little red berries are but they lined the trail abundantly, not as visual in photographs as it was in person but it did add a nice colorful touch to the fall scenery.

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This was the Lake that had mesmerized the new-commer settlers guided by local Indigenous while they mapped a landscape piece by piece. So prized that an expensive tour group and lodge for fisherman was founded and Fred Brewster was it's visionary. In 1927, he set out to guide a unique but expensive fishing expedition in the remote wilderness. The long journey would take a month on horseback to get to and much of the furniture like beds, tents and other necessities of life also had to be brought up on horseback. Because of it's long arduous journey, it would be a summer long endeavor to have one of the most remote guided retreats available in the densely forested mountainous area. In modern times, it takes a little over an hour to drive up to the lake from the highway.

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All it took was a man with a vision and a will to do it along with other equally dedicated visionaries willing to help make it a dream come true. What started with a summer long guided tour became more and more popular and each trip became easier and easier as they carved the landscape and continued building and bringing more supplies on horseback with each passing year. As the area gained traction, such a gem had to be preserved from various industrial and mining or forestry activities. Maintain a pristine landscape for generations to come like an old family heirloom. The people of Alberta's Heirloom.

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As an approximate 11 000 square km of parcel of protected land, Jasper is completely surrounded by additional provincially managed wilderness protected areas just like Banff, the mountain fun doesn't end at the National Park boundaries. Landscape disruption activities have slacker set of rules than a national park but heavily monitored and geared towards minimal impact as possible nonetheless. Anytime travelling thru a national park, there is an additional fee to get in, $20 per day or a year round all access pass to any national park in Canada for around $150. I highly recommend the pass and it pays itself off with 7 visits to any National Park. The fees collected help with the various preservation, environmental research activities and human impacts along with responsibly developing infrastructure to access and display to a broader audience than the rugged cowboy fisherman party.

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Today, there is a small town equipped with restaurants and your regular travel trinket shops along with hotel and shuttles to the various more remote activities. For those overwhelmed with the self guided concept, there is the option of a multitude of guided activities at a price. Anything with the Brewster or Pursuit Adventures label are a sure bet for a good time. They have certainly built an excellent reputation in the various landscape exploration easy for the rest of us to enjoy. they take pride in showing the landscape in a semi-luxury style in as sustainable as possible way continuously upgrading their operations in more sustainable ways given the millions of tourists it accommodates each year.

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Besides the usual cheap plastic trinkets, there is also the more upscale souvenirs for those willing to dish out a little more for a long lasting heirloom quality jewelry. Set in Silver are more affordable pieces with the ones set in gold being more from their signature collection. Available both in town and on the mountain top, just about any location with a visitor center and a large store. There is a mark-up but a cheaper alternative is visit their website as their items go on sometimes steep discounts. This gem is called Ammolite and is the official Gem of Alberta, the only mining known is near the Lethbridge area and permit issuance are far and few between giving Korite a large advantage in the niche market. A product from the fossils of ammonite shells but the ground conditions cause it to develop it's iridescent colors. It's carefully harvested as it's thin and fragile to then be covered with a protective piece of faceted or polished quarts for it's gem shape and longevity. Much of the stock finds it's way in the hands of Chinese tourists, they are a big fan of this stuff, can't say I blame them, the gem of the Rockies. https://korite.com/

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This photo was probably posted on my ladybug blog but I didn't take too many photos around the shop as it was busy and many of the items are the same being locally inspired. The pendants are made of British - Columbia mined Jade, although still a semi-precious stone, more affordable than Korite for the more modest budget. The mug is part of local Indigenous art print printed on various items like coffee mugs, wallets etc. they come in many designs as new ones get added to the mix and the collection grows, they too are pretty standard souvenir found in most shops across the mountains.

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Maligne Lake Road is separate from the town but just across the highway and well worth the drive up. Today on the mountain top with a lakeside view, there is now a boat house for guided tours to what we call Spirit Island, a visitor center with site specific trinket and hoodie shopping along with a pasta type spaghetti house. I never tried it but it smells delish. I like to see what's in the shop and get myself a lakeside hoodie to advertise to myself that I have been here while I sit here and write my posts. I'm wearing the wrong one, it says Banff. Ok... enough distractions.

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No wait, WAAAAFFFFLES. That is my favorite part of the journey. The smell as I walked by the Waffle house was way too much to resist. I can smell this thing from the parking lot. I skip breakfast so I can get my fill here, to be honest, we will drive up just to have breakfast here and then drive lower on the mountain for other day activities of interest. Besides Medicine Lake, there is also a nice easy enough hike thru Maligne Canyon, also part of the same water system where some of the mysterious Maligne region underground rivers resurfaces.

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The Waffle house comes with a bit of a price tag with their dishes priced between 15-20 + range for a plate but this isn't any ordinary waffles already being on a mountain top with a view of champions, each are specially crafted upon order right in front of customers from cooking to assembly topped with a various creative set of toppings.

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The later in the day, the more they begin to run out of toppings and once they are out for the day on anything, that's it. Limited amount of food supply is taken daily, expect some things to be missing unless going when they first open and fully stocked. This is a popular mountain top eatery.

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Sweet or savory? What will it be? What will it be? the menu has options like fried chicken and waffles, some with smoked salmon and pickled onion assembly along with the sweet toppings for the fruits and chocolate fan. My personal favorite is the breakfast waffle with Eggs, peppered bacon, homemade crisps and swiss cheese smothered in a double shot of maple syrup. YUMMMMY. Many North-Americans eat the cheap syrup, having grown on a maple syrup producing area, I have one word. NOOOOOOO. I don't care how expensive it is in Alberta, my waffles better be dripping from it.

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The two photos are two separate trips for comparison, I suppose the difference between slow and busy is apparent. It tasted just as good tho. I ordered double bacon, I swear there is an egg hiding under all that meat.

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I normally want to eat a double waffle serving but despite it's initial assessment of size, it's a pretty filling meal for a little lady like me. I don't want to eat too much because I would need to be pushed down the hill instead of hiking and would likely hit a lot of branches along the way, ouch! I suppose I can always stop on the way back from the hike for that double dose of fancy waffles! And I did. The shop both has indoor seating or a lakeside patio view. In the fall it's a little cold but I don't care, if there isn't any snow, I'm eating lakeside.

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The tourist tours and food activities are available all spring and summer long until Canadian thanksgiving weekend but the road is maintained and open year round to access the many trail networks. There is a bigger danger for snow avalanches on the road up so caution is needed but there is also a plow constantly going up and down the mountain to clear the road and monitor the additional risks. The trails look pristine in the winter and a good time to get the freshest looking snowy landscape.

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To take the boat tour to Spirit Island, it cost a pretty penny but well worth it's price, a cheaper alternative with a less ambitious goal, there is canoe rental to just be on the lake. I couldn't take it this time because of the covid regulations around a vaccine I didn't have but have taken it before and plan on returning at a future time. Reaching the area called Hall of the Gods is a sight to behold and it's a long canoe trip so the boat tours cuts a lot of arm work. Given the restrictions and one activity being off-limits, it was no bother. Maligne Lake has an extensive trail network to explore both around the lake or deeper into the forest or to higher ground for a bird's eye view of the location.

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The lake is fed by the melting glaciers in summer and the water levels increase exponentially as the season warms up until fall where it begins to freeze on the mountain tops often a few weeks earlier than lower on the lakeside, the water levels take a significant drop in the fall releasing trails that would normally be underwater from it's grips. In the summer, the trail ends abruptly after a few hours as the passage disappears underwater forcing hikers to turn around. It's impossible to reach Spirit Island from this trail but going around the lakeshore twists and turns opens up a new perspective on the landscape.

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This trail was a long one nonetheless and I knew I wouldn't reach the end of it but I was determined to walk as far as I could and turn around when I felt like it. I wasn't sure how much would be passable since I had never gone this far. The last time I had been here on this specific trail was winter time when the shutter to my D7000 finally kicked the bucket at the very beginning of the hike. I was devastated and still had a bit of resentment towards the situation. I was determined to make up for it with my new Z-6 upgrade and re-write my personal history with the region and build new memories.

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I was here just in time to catch the end of the wild mushroom season. Some of them looked a little soggy and on their bitter end while some looked fresher. Between the landscape and my newly discovered fungi wonders, I got lost in that forest for hours, of course not literally. It rains more in the fall, the ground and leafage was wet but it didn't stop my attempts to get down on the ground as close as I could. I wear old clothes that I don't mind ruining or getting full of stains. I just got those along the trail but the entire area was covered.

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While exploring national parks, it's good practice to stick to the already existing trail to prevent damaging the plants, moss and other delicate features. Some of these plants are quite rare and are also an important part of the wildlife's diet as they approach winter and consume more calories than normal anticipated a less abundant winter period. I don't know the names of any of them and I wont try to research them either but doesn't mean they can't visually be enjoyed.

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This view was completely new to me, I spent considerable time tucked away in this little portion of the lake, in order to cross the water we had to walk all the way around it.

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The only motorized anything allowed in these pristine waters are the boat tour and park officials, everyone else is human arm or legged powered to help keep pollution and contaminants as low as possible.

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Most of the trail is in the woods with a slight view of the lake between the tree line but for much of it, the lake side is directly accessible for most of the hike except for a few odd spots where there is a short trail back to the main trail. It's great for any moderate hiker but you probably don't want to take Grandma on this. It's a little of up and down, nothing too steep but it is a narrow access along the occasional slight cliffs and large Rockies left behind by the former glacial bed as it melted long ago. Some of these boulders are giant and seem mountain sized on their own with a few cute little trees growing at top.

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Several years ago, this portion of the forest had an out of control wildfire that came tearing thru and burned part of the trail. The burned sticks are still standing and offer a different lake side mountainous perspective. despite the damage, I always find it charming for photography. As devastating as these events are, it also normal for our province. Along with the low rainfall and warm summer days, there is dead wood increased by a pine beetle infection and something as simple as a lightning strike can create adverse circumstances without warning. A normal pine forest is supposed to last for 70 years, this one is 200 years old. It has done quite well already.

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These burned areas help regenerate the landscape and the growth of lower brush that is more suited to feed the extensive list of wild fluffy residents along with releasing new seeds for a fresh crop of pine trees to reclaim the land naturally. The heat of the fire is required to crack open the pine cone and release the seed for propagation. our human minds view it as devastating but it's part of the cycle of life nonetheless despite what we think of it. During the summer months, fireweed moves to these burned areas covering the forest floor with long stems covered in wild purple flowers. Looks amazing too. Medicine Lake as an easy view of the same without having to hike as it was also ravaged by wildfire years prior.

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I didn't see to many animals along the way but there was a good number of tracks to follow. I have become able to identify a few over the years. I have a book on Alberta animal tracks, it's fun to compare tracks and learn to identify your unseen trail buddies and tiny enough to fit nicely in my camera backpack. It's a helpful skill knowing what's around. Here moose is abundant, eagles, bears both grizzly and black bears, deer, elk, fox, cayotes, wolves...just about any small expected critters like birds and squirrels. It's pretty diverse. Bears hibernate but wolves and moose are sharing the trail network with humans year round and encounters are common especially with moose or bears, wolves are a little more timid and more likely to stalk, doesn't mean it isn't there.

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For most of the hike, I got stalked by a pair of local resident eagles flying overhead. They never came close enough for me to get any good pictures of them but I valued their company and loud alert screams nonetheless. They were warning the whole forest of our presence both on the way in and out of the woods. Good, maybe that would keep the surprise encounters at bay. Eagle encounters have been rare for me, I can find the nest with my zoom lens but it's generally empty and I don't have the patience to sit there for hours waiting for their return. I keep moving and I get what I get, What I don't well, try again next time.

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Now I had reached a point that I never been before and the scenery was new to me as I got closer to The hall of the Gods and could see it in the distance. I took many breaks, taking my time to fully grasp the beauty I was surrounded with and taking my time to capture every bit of it with my camera. The fall colors were nice, added to the already scenic hike. Fall temperatures around 10 degrees Celsius make for perfect hiking days as nothing gets too warm. Water is still a must, 2 bottles per person. Going in summer or before the end of tourist season, all the last minute canoe trips add to the photo visuals. The lake was busy that day. It was the very last day for both of the coveted aquatic activities.

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Just like any other setting around the mountainous regions of Alberta, every turn and bend offered a view of the different features, I wanted to go further but it had been several hours already and had wasted much of my time on mushroom photography. I got pretty far just the same, much further than the average tourist as we were the only 2 on the trail but I wanted to be out of the woods before darkness set in an in time for my second helping of waffles. The walk back was much faster then the way in, I didn't need to stop for every mushroom this time. I had my fill of images, all I could thinks about was WAFLES.

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I hope you enjoyed the little fungi hike in my playground and travel safe my friends!! xox

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