sup surfers
I tried to surf this weekend.
surfing is not easy. there are many things about it that are tricky. you have to first paddle out on your stomach.
then you need to go over the waves to get behind them.
then you gotta try to catch up with the wave and hop on the board in order to surf the wave.
the waves are scary too. super heavy walls of water that come right at you and dont stop.
its not easy. and it hurts. when you get rocked by a wave it feels like you are inside a washing machine, tumbling around under water without a notion of which direction is up or down. its only when your body hits the sand that you know which direction to go to get air.
and then when you do get to the surface to get a breath, another wave will hit you . no mercy.
ill probably just stick to skating
