A little throwback today to a hike 10 years ago. I was talking about Indonesian volcanos this week. Future visits of the Bromo and the blue flame volcano Kawa Ijen in Java, the Gunung Anung in Bali and not to forget one of the most insane and intense hike I've done: The Rinjani Trekking. I enjoy hiking volcano's all around the world and this one was absolutely magic.
Day 3, back to base
One of the most beautiful countries in the world
During my 15-month travel around the world, I've spent 1 month in Indonesia. It was not possible to visit all the 17,508 islands of the country in one month, but I managed to do around 25. Everyone that has visited Indonesia before probably knows the stunning boat trip from Lombok to Flores or visited the Gili Islands. Well, after all the hardcore backpacking adventures in Southeast Asia, it was time to chill for a few days. Spending 8 hours at a wooden bench on a rusty Indonesian ferry with a new Dutch travel friend from my former hometown: Rotterdam. We needed to relax after that (and sleeping on the floor at most accommodations). We were a perfect travel match, die-hard bargainers and adventurous. Ending up at the most beautiful places, travel on a motorbike around the islands, sleep in a tent on the beach, getting spicy local food in newspapers along the road, making bonfires on the beach, party with the locals. After this back-killing ferry trip we needed to relax...at the Gili Islands. After a slow crossing on the ocean with a rickety little boat, our luggage was soaked. We found a huge beachfront bungalow for a few euro's a night with outdoor shower and a shisha beach bar in front (with special shakes). Perfect spot to chill and snorkel between the turtles.
After sunrise view from mount Rinjani
The adventurers from the same hometown, Rotterdam
One of the many stunning views taken from mount Rinjani
What are we looking at?
Every day we saw the sun coming up over a high mountain range. Around that time, we didn't use smartphones and only travelled with a Lonely Planet (a cheap copy we bought from some kids in Cambodia). We figured at that this mountain range was Mount Rinjani, an active volcano on Lombok. We were making plans for the next few days. My hair was a bit long after a few months of no barbershop, so after a few drinks I decided to get dreadlocks... 3 days I was sitting cross-legged for hours with a local dish on my lap. The Indonesian boy felt a little embarrassed after 3 days, because he could not finish it without a special tool (that was not available on the island). I looked ridiculous and all Rastafari's on the island had quite a bit of fun when they saw me walking by. I tried to wash my hair daily in the salty ocean to get rid of this failure. In Indonesia we didn't had hot showers for a month. All the places we visited had only cold showers with salty ocean water (we loved to travel cheap though). I was the clown of the island and I decided to change the look to wearing a 'man bun'. Time to leave the Gili's, we wanted to climb that volcano we were looking at for a week.
The deal
Spending months in Southeast Asia, you will get used to the daily bargaining ritual. Me and my friend we pro's. We looked in the Lonely Planet for the best rated trekking company and went there. The group was actually ready to leave and we wanted to join and had a nice chat with the boss of the agency. We managed to spend around 70 euro's for a 3 day trekking on the volcano (including food and camp gear). They also wanted to buy my little tent after the trekking for a good price (I got the tent for free from another travel friend), but I said no. After paying the local currency, we immediately left for the trekking and joined the group. We were talking with the other travellers and realized that the others paid at least 3 times more. What a deal :) Sometimes getting a cheap deal means that you also get the lowest experience, in this case it wasn't.
Views from the rim
Intense and insane
Porters were carrying most of the stuff (camping gear, food etc.), they were doing it all on flip flops. No matter how steep or slippery....all on flip flops. The start was in the dense hot and humid jungle. I normally sweat a lot, but this day I was a walking waterfall. Luckily we were in good shape and I have to say, for this multiple day hike you need a good condition. When I climb, it's not difficult to find me, you just have to ask for the guy walking around half naked (even when the hike is on snowy mountains). At the end of day one, we ended up at the rim of the original crater. The porters set up the tents for us and I wondered if they ever did this trekking before. I mean setting up the tent on top of the rim in the full strong wind. Almost every tent went flat during the windy night and no one got a bit of sleep. We changed our position a bit, to stay slightly more comfortable. The views when you hike around the rim were already beautiful. The views over the clouds, like flying in an airplane. The next days we crossed the rim and we had to climb down in the huge crater to the lake. round that time pretty slippery and steep, without any steps or sometimes not even seeing a trail. Occasionally there was a 3 meter bar on poles and we asked why..."Some people died here". It's not a lie, many people died in the past during the climbing of the Gunung Rinjani (because of bad weather conditions, falling, earthquakes).
The start of the trail in the jungle
The local porters
Freshly chopped
Trekking buffet
Luckily we fed a white dog that we met when we jumped out of the car before the trekking. He loved our cookies and constantly walked ahead of us. Sometimes he slid down and we knew to be a bit more careful. And at other moments he chased the macaque monkeys that tried to steel or belongings and food. Yes, you will meet a lot of macaques along the route and they are cheeky. After our sliding way down the bush, we entered the big hole. The original crater, which is a lake these days. After all the sweating from the last 2 days, it was the perfect moment to dip in the refreshing water. During the last 2 days we met just a few hikers (remember, all hikers do it with a tour). They all warned us for not being too excited. "We didn't see anything" or "It's so hard to get there" or "We didn't make it to the top". Well, with mountains you won't get me disappointed in advance...you can always be lucky. Talking about lucky...
Our white hairy guide
One of the cheeky monkeys
Drop it like it's hot
The guides asked us if we wanted an extra stop for another swim. Why not? After strolling down a little canyon we arrived at this little yellow/green/bleu colored pool with a waterfall. Not knowing yet, that this was the hottest waterfall you can imagine. Seriously? A hot shower while backpacking Indonesia? It was such a treat after one month of could salty showers. I think I stayed under the hot waterfall for at least an hour. The weird thing about this incredible place (the views where also unexpectedly nice), it was empty. We were with a group of 6 people (and the white dog) and had all the space to enjoy this smelly surprise. Yes, it smelled like rotten eggs. I used my Panasonic underwater camera, like the other team members also did. Let me give you one advise, never use waterproof phones or cameras in water like this. The sulfer will destroy your camera in a few days. For us this so called difficult hike, felt like paradise. Even the food was good and fresh. The rice and veggies were carried by the porters, the chicken was killed a few meters behind you. We were full of energy and continued a steep hike up to the 2nd basecamp.
Finally a hot shower
Stay sharp
Getting impressed by all the beauty and experiences during this trekking. It might distract you. Better stay sharp. We have our little white hairy friend with us, but he can't be there all the time. The porters put up our tents at the 2nd basecamp in the mist. It was quite chilly up here, we took on some warm clothes and had a little nap in the tent. The monkeys outside were making noises while going through the cooking tools. We opened up the tent and wanted to jump outside with enthusiasm (and scare the monkeys). But wait...WFT?! These porters again needed some new camping skills. The opening of 1 side of our tent was half a meter from a deep cliff. Funny guys, at least we were sharp as a knife (and knives were missing in the kitchen utilities here), minutes after waking up. Better open up the other side of the tent. Outside we saw many tents, mostly local police and army guys practicing their skills here. We saw porters running around on small loose edges carrying 50kg on bamboo sticks on their shoulder, all while wearing flip flops. I had a little 'staredown' with a macaque. It was another windy night. We got up in the middle of the night and talked with the guide. He explained us when to start the hike to the top and I realized that it could not be correct. He said the sun would rise at 6 am. But I knew from waking up at the beach at the Gili's, we always saw the sun coming over the top at 6 am. That means, we should be at the top at least at 5 am. We convinced him to leave 1 hour earlier. Stay sharp.
The staredown: Macaque vs. Man Bun
Our porters on flip flops
Hot tea to warm up
Trying to reach the summit before sunrise
Never give up
The camp at Senaru Crater Rim is at 2641m above sea level, the summit of Mount Rinjani is at 3726m. In it was all loose volcanic gravel. 2 steps up, 1 slide down. Just try to step in the steps from the person in front of you. The wind was extremely strong and the temperature was freezing. By this time I was not running around half naked anymore and I got on my hoody and gloves. Due to the wind, most people at the base camp did not go up. It was our team of 4 (plus guide and dog) and 1 other small group in front of us. At some point both guides and their teams were hiding between a few big rocks, the wind was strong and they needed a rest. But we were full of adrenaline and wanted to be up on the summit on time. We had a little chat and told our guide that also from the other group people wanted to go up. We got a 'Go' from the guides. So 4 of us, plus 1 of the other team and...NO GUIDES! Hilarious, the experienced guides were too tired. We had our own white little hairy friend that guided us to the top and gave him more food. We made it before sunrise and believe me, it wasn't easy. We didn't realize that we crossed parts that were quite narrow, loose and with steep drops on both sides. During our last steps before the summit we already saw magic clouds over one of the best views I've seen on a volcano. It felt like a glorious victory. The staredown with the monkey had a reason I guess. It became even more special when we saw the Glory, an optical phenomenon. In the distance you could see the volcano of Bali sticking its summit through the deck of clouds. But my shadow and the rising sun behind me created the Brocken Spectre (also know as the Mountain spectre). This spectre made it spectacular, doing dances on the Rinjani summing and seeing your shade dancing on top of the volcano on the next island. We spend some time on top and our official guide arrived 1 hour later, being a bit surprised that we managed to reach the summit by ourselves. We went back, sliding down the black gravel. The spectre kept following me in the mountain area, no matter where I looked.
Last few steps before the summit
Start of extreme happiness
Shadow of Rinjani
Glorious moment
Glory and the Brocken Spectre
Expect the unexpected
Day 3 was about hiking down the other side in one day. Crossing dry river beds and the climate was getting hot and humid again. Still thinking back on this epic trip and amazed why only the 5 of reached the summit of this beautiful volcano. We gave our white little friend a last hug to say goodbye, he was our true guide on this trekking. The tour company dropped us in the back of an old pickup. My friend wanted to sit on the tailgate of the pickup, to have the best view. I asked her if that was a good idea, but she wanted it. We had quite some speed on the road, strangely enough there are roads in Indonesia where you are not in a constant traffic jam. And at some point it happened...a loud crack! And I saw my friend falling backwards of the pickup on the the road. The driver behind us was sharp and they was able to avoid her. You think you've seen it all and then this happens. I worried about my friend and run to her to see what her condition was. What a lucky chick. Falling backwards of a driving pickup and only hitting the road with her bum. What a bummer? No, we just laughed and continued our adventures.
Daily treats of beauty
The team that went solo to the summit
That feeling...
After all the volcanic talking last week, I dived into my old pictures and added them to this little story. They were all taken with my Panasonic underwater camera. It's the only thing that didn't survive this trekking. My photography skills 10 years ago where not the best. And I also had quite a different look 😂
Day 3 sunrise
