We set off from the Nyugati train station in Budapest towards the northern Hungarian city of Esztergom. Esztergom is one of the oldest cities in Hungary and today serves as an important cultural and religious center.
We came here not only to see Hungary’s largest place of worship, the St. Adalbert Basilica, but also to, quite literally, have one foot in Slovakia. We even thought we might spend half the day in the neighboring country. And besides, there’s a lot to see in Esztergom too.
The city greeted us with sunny and beautiful weather. On our previous visit, we were near the train station and had taken a bus to quickly reach the basilica. This time we decided to walk. The city is small; it takes about 40 minutes to walk from the train station to the basilica. This is a great opportunity to enjoy the city's atmosphere and architecture.
Esztergom is one of the oldest cities in Hungary. During the Roman era, a fortified settlement called Salvia Mansio stood here. Later came Germanic tribes, the Avars and then the Slavs. With the arrival of the Hungarians in the early 10th century, Esztergom soon became the residence of Grand Prince Géza and remained a key center for Hungarian kings for centuries.
As we walked toward the basilica, we passed through the center of Esztergom. The city's main square is called Széchenyi Square. It's a must-see location, surrounded by Baroque and Rococo-style buildings from the 15th to 19th centuries. There are cafés and restaurants here, an ideal spot for a coffee or ice cream break.
We strolled around the square, took some photos and then continued toward the basilica. In addition to the basilica, Esztergom is also home to Esztergom Castle. The castle is a great place to explore the city's architecture and history. There are exhibitions inside where you can learn more about the city’s rich past. By the way, did you know that the Celts once lived here too?
Even though we only viewed the castle from the outside, it was quite impressive. There’s a small outdoor exhibit showcasing various bells. After checking those out, we headed straight to the viewing terrace in front of the basilica.
Right next to the basilica, there’s a souvenir shop. Of course, we couldn't leave without stopping in. Interestingly, many of the fridge magnets feature the Pope’s image. If memory serves me right, this might be related to a papal visit. We bought a bracelet and a magnet, especially the one with the map of Hungary showing the country’s territorial losses after the Treaty of Trianon caught our attention.
It’s possible to climb to the dome of the basilica, which offers a stunning view. However, you don’t need to pay for the observation area to enjoy a great view; the panoramic terrace behind the basilica also provides a magnificent vista. From there, you can see the Danube River, the Maria Valeria Bridge and the Slovak town of Štúrovo on the opposite bank.
The basilica ranks as the 18th largest church in the world. It’s truly massive. Its position on a high hill along the Danube makes it look even more majestic. This becomes even more apparent when viewed from the bridge or from the Slovak side.
The weather began to turn and it started to rain, but we still wanted to walk across the Maria Valeria Bridge to the Slovak side.
During our visit, the basilica was undergoing restoration, scaffolding covered its exterior. Renovations were ongoing inside as well, but entrance was still free. The religious paintings and frescoes inside were still visible. These decorations not only beautify the interior but also reflect the basilica’s historical and religious significance. They create an atmosphere that encourages contemplation and prayer.
Eventually, we headed toward the bridge. In just five minutes, we crossed over into Slovakia. The Maria Valeria Bridge is 500 meters long and connects the two cities from two different countries. It is named after Maria Valeria, daughter of Austro-Hungarian Emperor Franz Joseph. The bridge opened in 1895 but was destroyed twice, in 1920 and again in 1944. During WWII, the German army blew it up while retreating. It wasn't rebuilt for 60 years. Finally, it was reopened on October 11, 2001.
After crossing the bridge, we arrived in Štúrovo. Although this city isn’t as large or well-known as Esztergom, it has its own unique charm. From there, we admired the panoramic view of Esztergom and then had lunch. A meal for five people, including beer, cost just over 70 euros.
After lunch, we walked around a bit or rather, we went to some supermarkets. First Billa, then Lidl. We wanted to bring back a few cans of sweetened condensed milk. We also picked up some “Kofola,” a drink that was once created as a local alternative to Coca-Cola.
After a short shopping trip, we returned to Esztergom.
I’d like to share informative and interesting posts not just about Hungary, but also about neighboring countries. I also plan to write about how to travel by train from Budapest to some of Europe’s most fascinating cities. See you soon .
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