Let me make this crystal clear: Once you hit your early twenties, you start losing 1% of your collagen every year. Collagen, as we all know, is the secret behind skin strength, suppleness, and that coveted youthful glow. As the years roll on, collagen levels plummet, and our skin begins to show those telltale signs of aging – wrinkles. This is where the influencers swoop in, ready to make a fortune off your desire to defy time, peddling anti-aging creams that promise miracles. But let me share some insights to help you navigate this maze.
In other to understand skin cream, you must understand the skin itself, which is the largest organ in the body. The hypodermis the innermost layer of the skin, and it holds the sweat gland, fat gland, and the base of the hair follicles, The dermis is the next part and it contains collagen fibers, and sebaceous glands that secretes natural oils.
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The next part is the epidermis, which is made up of the Stratum basale which consist of stem cells that replicate to produce your skin cells ( Keratinocytes). The stratum Basale is followed by the Stratum Spinosum where the keratinocyte links up, after which the next layer is the Stratum Granulosum, where the keratinocyte flattens as they loose their fat and nucleus. The final and upper part of the epidermis is the Stratum Corneum which is made up of dead cell.
Do not worry too much about the different Epidermis layer because it is just 1mm thick making it very thin but it is the barrier that protect the inner skin and the internal organ from the outside world.
Now, when it comes to anti-aging beauty creams, you've probably noticed the word "collagen" plastered on numerous products. But here's the catch; collagen molecules are simply too large to penetrate the epidermis. Despite being a prominent protein in our bodies, scientific research confirms that collagen can't make it through this the Epidermis.
I delved into scientific studies while scrutinizing what social media influencers promote, and the results were less than stellar. I came across another anti-aging cream boasting vitamin C. Here's a quick tidbit: research suggests that vitamin C can be effective when applied topically as an antioxidant (emphasis on "topically"), as it's notoriously challenging to deliver vitamin C to the dermis, where aging concerns truly lie. My best friend has been using various anti-aging creams since her early twenties, and I often wonder if the effects she experiences are real or merely a placebo effect. Perhaps it's just the topical impact of vitamin C on her skin.
Among the myriad ingredients I investigated, one that caught my eye (but wasn't widely available in the products I surveyed at the mall) is Palmitoyl Polypeptides. These are fatty acid chains connected to proteins, and research suggests they can penetrate the epidermis five times more effectively than other compounds, aiding in the penetration of natural proteins and stimulating collagen production. While the research is ongoing, some consensus exists among scientists in this regard.
Another ingredient in anti-aging cream that has been studied and has a consensus by scientist is Retinoic acid or Retinol which is a derivative of vitamin A. It can go through the epidermis to the dermis, to stimulate the growth of collagen, just as it creates new blood vessels in the skin area but retinoic acid can be toxic when consumed orally. A person using an anti-aging cream with retinol would need to use it at night as the molecule is sensitive to light but then retinoid molecules are toxic but retinol at a minute percentage are still sold in creams over the counter.
For me, I'm skeptical of influencers peddling everything and anything on social media just to pad their wallets and secure more endorsements. If you're considering a cream with collagen, think again because scientific consensus suggests they won't work. Retinol might be a game-changer, but consulting with a dermatologist before use is a smart move. Your skin deserves the best, and armed with knowledge, you can make informed choices in your quest for ageless beauty.
Post Reference
https://rejuvaustralia.com.au/blog/collagen-production-decrease/
https://www.hsph.harvard.edu/nutritionsource/collagen/
https://www.physio-pedia.com/Collagen
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK470464/
https://training.seer.cancer.gov/melanoma/anatomy/layers.html
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3673383/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5579659/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4131521/
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1756464621003297
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2699641/
https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/Retinoids-in-the-treatment-of-skin-aging%3A-an-of-and-Mukherjee-Date/d3f93cdb85f5df6f8081f17b8f255a470dc856b2
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK548568/