First written and published in 2013, here
When I first came to Greece as an ex-pat, I made observations. Observations that were seen from the eyes of an English man living in a different culture. I was told not to compare, not to be negative, not to say bad things about my new home. Some years later, and in the midst of an economic crisis, these comments are starting to be aired by the citizens themselves. Greece maybe have been the home of civilisation and democracy and culture, but it seems that these bastions no longer exist, as the land is thrown into a modern chaotic mess. It now appears to be an ageing, cripple not able to defend itself in a turbulent world. It is not all bad. Greece has some amazing beauty. Some amazing people. A great, deep-seated culture, but the flaw is simple. It is trying too hard to hold onto this, and at the same time catch up to the rest of the world.
My first thoughts of Greece, as I stepped off the plane for the first time, were of a hot dry country. Always with blue sky and an amazing amount of white buildings. That seemed to flare into one's eyes more that the sun itself. Driving from the airport, I saw another indication of Greek juxtaposing. A stream of billboards perched on any available spot that the road or building would allow. This image made me think of America (or at least and Americanism). That was twelve years ago. In that time, luckily, I have been able to see a different side to the life lived in the cities. I have visited several Greek cities, and to me, they all appear the same; a concrete mess, of noise, rubbish, incomplete buildings and cement. My salvation has been the villages and islands. These are the places that tourists remember of this country. Quaint and picture postcards of the idea of what Greece seems to be in many an eye. The quintessential fishing village with bobbing blue boats next to white buildings, with their hand moulded finish and blue painted shutters. Old ladies ambling along cobbled roads, and the beautiful silence that is only topped by the clarity of the crystal aqua green waters.
What has these past twelve years taught me about living in a foreign land? Seems the main one is never be negative in public about the place. Greeks have a strong pride for their country that is as old as the hills, and an ego to match. They are proud of their minor achievements as much as their major. Until recent, they seemed to hide their disrespect of the failing of the country within their cafe and taverna lifestyle. Life is to live, and if you have money then spend it while you can. Now, falling into the lies of their past three governments, this ideology doesn't seem to hold true anymore. The division of what is great about good Greeks and what is bad about the rest, is getting forever wider. The corruption of many a government has made a hole too hard for them to get out of. And who is going to suffer? The good people. The folks that are willing to say "Καλημέρα" to you on a bad day. Who are patient, kind and rich with kindness. These are the people who are being crushed like their iconic olives to oil the rich, corrupt tyrants.
Greece has now been revealed to have not been worthy of it's entry into the European circus, and these past days, it has become evident that this truth has become the weak keystone in Greece's survival in the market. It couldn't keep it's promises then, and is close to defaulting on them now. All that is a strong economic salvation is never grown to be good business. One of the weaker attributes of some personalities live by the rule; "never do today what you can put off till tomorrow." Tourism was a potential saviour to the economic structure of this land, but it has been unkept and is badly in need of a boosting that, unfortunately the country cannot afford. What makes a country what it is? Is it the stone and earth of the land? The people that break their backs each day to make a crust to eat? Is it the social identity that defines its politics, it's religion, etc? What Greece has become to me, is about people.
Good people appear when there seems to be no hope. They appear as humans rather than any ethnic denomination. Mainly because they care. They are few and far between. But this can be said of any country. Including my own, not so Great Britain. These changes are not attributable to the core souls of individuals, but the changing social climate that the entire world is part of. I used to be told, on being questioned about what I thought of Greece, that it's way behind other countries. This being true, I can only see the development that Greece and I have had together as an eye-opener to how it was when I left my own country. Too much carbon coping of the way society crumbles (in other countries) has started to erode the fabric of this country. People seem to be more scared, more cautious, more unfriendly and more westernised than when I first came here. Again, I can't say this is a global neurosis that affects all. But observation has seen more vagrant and despondent types walking the street. More economically inflicted people; as shop after shop is closed and the streets become barren of that lively chat. And black market pedlars are more the order of the day.
Why am I still here, could be asked? Firstly and most nobly, I am here for my daughter. Greece is still a great deal safer than my homeland. She is happy here. Has friends and has a command of the language that makes it easier for her to get on. A thing I now start to realise as being one of the sacrifices of being a parent. Whether all that is important it's hard to know. Trying to develop a relationship with this shy, quiet little lady is under strain from the simple case of making some kind of existence here. Work is becoming more and more scarce. My chosen career is not now noted as being strongly prolific. Due, again, to global market forces. I try though. I have also, over the years, become more open to the observations I see around me. Maybe due to the excursions I have undertaken. Sitting atop the majestic Mount Olympus takes a great deal of the pain away. Slight winds and fresh air seem to blow away the stagnating despair the cities build up.
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