Then they discovered that this fear had been instilled in me by a nanny who took care of me. (Maybe to force me to take a shower. Which had the opposite effect) And it took a long time to convince me that the animal didn't exist.
Then at 6 years, I was already playing in the small waves with a small Styrofoam board. We went to the beach a lot on vacation.
At 9 years old I already had a bodyboard, which at the time was called Morey Boogie. I also started to go by bus with my friends on the street alone. Almost daily. We spent the day catching waves.
We took money that was folded in the velcro fastening pocket of the shorts and which we then used (the money were all wet) to snack, buy popsicles, and pay for the return ticket.
Not before I also spent a long time rolling on the sand, getting warm. (it seems to me that the term “farofeiro” came from there) But the kids of my time used to say “breaded steak” hahaha.
All photos on this blog are made by me with a smartphone
