Taken late 2013. We were just free floating and enjoying some Carlsberg which is the most ubiquitous and affordable beer in Malawi. The fishermen came up to us and we had a chat about their modus operandi.
The owner of the larger boat with the motor makes his money or cut from transporting the canoe fishermen to their fishing spots miles into the lake where they will often spend the whole night and then fetching them early the next day. You can see the paraffin lamps that go on a lateral orientated plank on the canoe, often three lamps in a row.
The light serves to illuminate their working environment but is also critical in attracting fish.
Taking the whole lake into account and the sheer amount of fishermen, transport by motor driven water trucks are not the rule. Most fisherman simply employ their oar and canoe like a SUP paddle board and row out to their spots. And they go for miles and hours without end. Wiry and sinewy and unstoppable. Men in their seventies. I spent a whole day just puffing on Malawi Gold cob while watching people work with what seems to be supernatural strength and stamina.
Brochures and websites can't seem to agree on whether Lake Malawi is called the Lake of Stars because of some anecdotal quote from David Livingstone or if it refers to the thousands of lamps on the canoes at night.
All I can tell you is that, sitting at the highest point of an island at night and looking out over hundreds of miles of water, I would go with the canoes for bringing the stars. It is something to behold, but impossible to photograph with amateur equipment and no formal knowledge of photography.
Bait Fish
Also, Malawi is stunning. Snorkeling amongst thousands of the most colourful fish you'll find this side of an oceanic coral reef. It's like an endless aquarium in places. The people are really chilled and friendly. I liken it to being Africa's Thailand. It also has lots of perfect options for backpackers on a budget.
Hardly a mile into the lake, we simply cupped our hands and would drink straight from it, or use it as mixer in our whiskey.
Not sure when, but I'm definitely going back.
