Hi, today we are going to make a shirt. In this case it would be a men's shirt, but as the saying goes "about tastes there is nothing written" so it is for anyone who wants a shirt. I made size 38.
The shirt goes from size 36 to 56, now, in the case of the front, all the measurements that are in the pen are like this in all sizes, but! I have to clarify that there is a measurement that goes from size 42 to 56 (20.0 cm) and another that goes from size 44 to 56 (0.5 cm). These two measures go in a pen since they are not modified.
The same happens in the back mold, from size 42 to 56 (20.0 cm) is repeated in all, and from size 44 to 56 (0.5 cm) as well.
In the case of the sleeve this occurs in: the front from size 46 to 56 where the measurements 1.5 cm and 1.0 cm are repeated until the end.
At the back from size 46 to 56, measurements 2.0 cm and 0.5 cm are also repeated until the end.
In the neck, only the length should be modified, the other measurements are the same in all sizes.
The cuff of the shirt does not have different measurements, that is, they are the same in all sizes.
This is how the molds would look once cut.
In the case of the back, as the flap has to be separated from the rest of the shirt, in order to be able to clip it. What they can do is fold it when transferring it on the fabric.
It would look like this, remember that the 1.0 cm seam allowance must go in all the contours of the shirt, so if you mark it on the folded part of the lapel, it also goes on the part of the shirt.
As you can see, the neck is divided into two parts.
The cuffs of the shirt would be like this.
Once the fabric is cut, the front would look like this, the dotted line is where the buttons and buttonholes would go.
The back without the flap, you can also see the line of the clamp, it should not go all the way down, I lick it like that so that you can see it, but the measurement looks good at the top.
The lapels.
The neck.
The cuffs of the shirt.
And the sleeves. Now that we have everything cut out, let's start sewing.
The first thing we are going to do is join the clamp, as seen in the image.
Then we will place the flaps, if they are well cut, they will come from end to end once the clamp is closed.
Besides, we are going to sew the neck, joining parts 1 and 2 respectively, as seen in the image.
In the case of the front parts, what I did was cut a ribbon to attach it to the edges, where the buttons and buttonholes would go.
I made the cut to the sleeves and added a ribbon (much narrower) to give it a detail.
I repeat the image because I want you to see that the seam in the corners of the shirt cuffs is not straight, but rather has a small angle.
When we have all this ready, we join the front shoulders with the rear ones.
Then we sew the neck. When we have that ready, we sew the sleeves, keep in mind that the cut that they make to the sleeve goes from the back side, that is very important when sewing it to the shirt.
Before closing the sleeves, they have to sew the darts and the ribbon (if they did not sew it before).
Once the sleeves are closed, they add the cuffs (which were already prepared previously). They also have to sew the buttons and buttonholes. They have to be as in the image.
Now they measure the distance between the buttons and the buttonholes, a good measurement is 8.0 cm between button and button. As in the skirt with buttons, what you can do to measure the buttonholes is to measure the diameter of the button and then pass that measurement to the mark you have for the buttonholes.
Finally, they do the roll and voila, the shirt is ready.
Image taken from my Instragram @fire_rabbit.