South Africa is far from perfect. We have so many things that are still not right post-1994 and apartheid. But one thing that is great about this country is our multiculturalism or the mostly peaceful acceptance of our differences. A while ago, a video surfaced on the internet about a man walking down the street. In the video, he says where can you find elsewhere in the world a mosque and a church in the same street without the two religions fighting? In South Africa, we have many people who fight about the differences they have, and inherently we are still a divided country. But for the most part, we accept differences.
One such example of the glaring differences but where you find everyone, is in the Bo-Kaap. And more specifically, you will find everyone, from every cultural background in the quaint little spice shop Atlas Trading Co.
(Note: This is not a sponsor or endorsement for the shop. I am using this specific spice shop as a metaphor for a place where all cultures gather and where our differences are transcended.)
As with much of South African history, the story of the Bo-Kaap is one of division and racism. The area was apparently bought by a rich landowner who imported slaves from, amongst other places, Malaysia, and hence the name the Cape Malay area. Various classical and quintessentially South African dishes, like Bobotie and yellow rice, are directly influenced by Cape Malay culture. One of the local languages, Afrikaans, is also directly influenced by various languages like Malay. (For example, a word most Afrikaans speaking people use "baie", meaning "very", is borrowed from the Malay "banja", or so goes the theory.)
The reason for the colorful houses is also historical. It is not 100% confirmed that it is the case, but one of the reasons is that people who could buy their houses and property celebrated their freedom with the painting of their homes in these wonderful colors. (See references on this: Wikipedia and IOL.) The region also developed due to their cultural heritage, a unique culinary history. Various original spice blends from various families are now branded in the stores like "Father-in-law" spice blend.
The division between poverty and affluence is visible when you drive through Cape Town. It is not something to write about in a travel blog, but people who have been here know about this. Various people are familiar with the Time Magazine cover with the now-iconic photograph of Johnny Miller. Driving through Cape Town one is struck by the skyscrapers and the utter poverty almost right next to them. I think one cannot skip writing about this fact when you write about Cape Town. Driving from my side of town (Helderberg area) to Cape Town you need to drive through the poverty-stricken areas. (I did not photograph these areas for obvious reasons.)
Now for the colorful houses of the Bo-Kaap. One can go on various tours and walks through the Bo-Kaap, and there are also historical houses turned into museums one can visit. Various restaurants with colorful paintings are also alluring. But the smell of spiced food would quickly make you hungry to sit down and have a bite.
I have seen so many people pose in front of these homes for pictures. I sometimes wonder if the owners have a problem with it! But so many people visit these streets to view the colorful houses and, like me, take a picture of them. With the mountains in the backdrop, it really makes for stunning photographs.
It was a sunny day, so all the photographs came out nice and sharp. The colorful houses are also stunningly contrasted against the blue skies.
As noted, walking in these streets will leave you hungry. One can visit some of the local places, or you can make like I did (if you have a kitchen). Go to Atlas Trading Co spice shop and buy whatever you fancy spice-related to make some of the best curries and other spiced foods you will ever make!
(Sorry for the pole that is in front of this artwork/mural!)
I love to cook with spices. But spices are quite expensive where I live. I therefore always plan a yearly trip to stock up my spice (and rice!) pantry. The trip to the Bo-Kaap and Cape Town is thus one I always look forward to. I am glad that I could share it this year if you have never seen the colorful houses of the Bo-Kaap. But I also want to share this little gem of a shop where I and a lot of other people buy their spices: Atlas Trading Co.
Situated in one of the colorful houses, you are greeted with aisles on aisles of spices, nuts, beans, lentils, and so many other things. This year I did not have to stock up too much. Only rice and some essential spices. But in 2019 I almost bought my whole salary's worth in spices! Luckily I used some of the ingredients in my bread baking endeavors and made some of the money back. But this little shop will have you feel like a kid in a candy shop (if you like cooking).
(I bought all of these things in 2019. Various things like the lentils that are dried are still in my pantry which I still use! It was quite a haul but it was worth it.)
Have you been to the Bo-Kaap and Cape Town? If you are planning to travel here, do yourself a favor and walk in the colorful streets of the Bo-Kaap and buy yourself some of the most amazing spices! I hope that you enjoyed this trip! And I hope that you would be able to visit our beautiful country and our stunning towns!
