The pie is a comfort shrouded in many commandments; flakey crust, all butter, lard, rest the dough, cornstarch in the fruit.
No one wants to stray from Granny's recipe for fear of breaking her sweet little heart.
Is this really how one should view dessert? With steadfast rules and stipulations?
Making pie crust was my moms speciality. I remember when she showed me how to make crusts. It was a lesson in tradition, with no absolutes, and complete finesse. She made it look so easy.
The first time I set out to make my own crust I laid everything out in my tiny kitchen, newly married, trying to impress. It wasn't a complete disaster, but it didn't go as smoothly as one would well hope. It wasn't exactly to the standards that I'd learned to be in a pie, but it was still a pie gosh darn it.
I can't say after how many attempts that I found I could indeed make pie close to my mom, and perhaps a couple of times as good as my moms. I'm not even sure when I decided to stray a bit from what she had taught me. There was nothing broke, nothing to fix.
Most people are very fervent about their pie crusts. I know my mom had always used shortening (and with great results), I decided that butter was my way for years. Then I began tinkering with lard, and even some other recipes all together. I liked the different. I liked how different crusts seemed better suited to different fillings. All this breaking of rules and I don't even think I broke my grandmas heart.
While I'm gushing about breaking rules and branching out, it's not like there aren't steadfast techniques that guarantee a delicious crust no matter what recipe you use.
The first one is to work your fat into the flour mix quickly, as to keep it cool and not overwork your dough.
I prefer to use a wire pastry cutter. I don't know for sure why, but it just works. You could try using a food processor. I'm terrible at using the processor for some reason I totally over work it and have to start over.
The next step is to add the binder. I've never made crust with eggs, but I'm willing to try. I do however like to mix things up and use sour cream (or more often plain yogurt). I have this thing in my head that this crust goes with sour fruits perfectly. It's a bit chewier, less flakey, but perfect in it's own way.
The trick to this is small amounts and chilled always helps too.
I usually work things in using my hands either on the counter or in a very large bowl. I usually stop adding the binder just when the crumbs come together easily.
All those pieces will come together in the end. Sometimes I chill the dough, and I think it's one of those rules, but more often I just roll it out and make it a pie as soon as possible.
Now gluten free is another beast all together.
I use two sheets of parchment and a small amount of any gluten free flour. I'm not extremely proficient and honestly there's still some cursing and fudging after it's in the pan.
Some days your crust will look like a magazine and others it will be rustic and yet beyond delicious.
I decided to break out and go mini with this pie. The crust on the right is this gluten free crust. I've made it three times now and each time I've been amazed at what a great recipe it is, and each time I feel like I need more practice.
Fillings are easy, and perfect for experimenting. Everyone has their favorites and it's easy to add flare. I prefer to add a little salt, some cornstarch and a nice bit of butter to every fruit filling.
I think some other rules to break or not to break are most helpful.
Turn the oven on at least 425º and place a cookie sheet in to preheat. Place the pie on the sheet and bake for 5 minutes, then turn the oven down to 350º or whatever your recipe states.
Always use a foil or pie crust shield. It will keep the crust from over browning and will ensure that adoring pie presentation.
Let it rest after baking. It's hard to resist cutting a giant slice straight from the oven, but a cooled pie is closer to perfect. Especially when fruit is involved, the juices will thicken (it's science or something).
I'll leave you with my 2 favorite recipes to break all the rules with.
This is my moms recipe, and it's my 'go to'. You can try to fiddle around with different kinds of fats. I've listed my favorite combo.
2 cups all purpose flour
1/4 cup lard
3/4 cups butter
1/2 cup ice water
1 teaspoon salt
Combine the flour and salt in a bowl. Cut in the butter and lard until small pea size pieces form. Add the water small amounts at a time until the mixture forms a ball. Cut in half and chill for 2 hours. Roll out each crust on a floured surface. Use as directed for your pie recipe.
1 cup unsalted butter
2 1/2 cups unbleached flour
8 heaping teaspoons sour cream or plain yogurt
1 teaspoon salt
Whisk together the flour and salt. Cut in the butter breaking it up in to pea size pieces. Slowly add in the sour cream mixing it until completely combined. Cut in half and chill. Roll out and use.
