臺灣的原住民是17世紀漢族移民移入前就已定居在此的族群,屬於南島民族,與東南亞、大洋洲許多島嶼的民族同源,在我小時候有個以台灣原住民文化為主題所打造的園區,叫做九族文化村,所以,我小時候以為原住民只有九族,事實上,正式認定的原住民族計有十六族,不過,我有聽過另一種說法,有多達三十多個部族,大多數的原住民多有一副好歌喉,及好酒量,為人熱情大方,某些知名歌手也有原住民血統,如張惠妹等。
我想像中的原住民族音樂季,應該是一場熱鬧又充滿活力的大型活動,現場會聚集許多喜愛音樂與原住民族文化的民眾,舞台上則有一組又一組的原住民歌手輪番登場,不過,我到得太早了,當天天氣又悶又熱,讓人光站在戶外就開始冒汗,我遠遠地躲在樹蔭下,觀察現場的準備情況,我原本還期待可以先聽到歌手彩排,沒想到預計演出的歌手似乎也很懂得避暑,不太願意在這麼炎熱的天氣裡認真彩排,頂多出現幾分鐘,確認一下現場設備或走個流程,很快就又消失。
接到我到原住民市集區逛逛,也是有很多有意思的攤位,銷售原住民特色的美食、飾品或工藝品等,說到原住民酒的話,人們會直覺地聯想到小米酒,小米被原住民們視為神聖作物,不僅在部落的祭祀活動中扮演著重要角色,更是族人熱愛的傳統飲品,酸酸甜甜的小米酒,酒精濃度不高,常常讓人忍不住人一口接一口喝下去,經過一家攤位,老闆正在烤鹹豬肉,鹹豬肉也是傳統原住民食物之一,是運用大量鹽巴或小米酒生醃保存肉類的傳統料理,在傳統市場上也可以看到有人在賣,不過,原住民做的,應該比較正宗,不過因為天氣太悶熱了,逛的人非常地少,各攤位也懶得招呼來往路人,所以,非常地冷清。
Taiwan’s Indigenous peoples were already living on the island before Han Chinese immigrants began arriving in the 17th century. They belong to the Austronesian family, which means they share ancestral roots with many peoples in Southeast Asia and the islands of the Pacific. When I was a kid, there was a cultural theme park called Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village, which was built around Taiwan’s Indigenous cultures. So, when I was growing up, I actually thought there were only nine Indigenous tribes in Taiwan. In fact, there are officially 16 recognized Indigenous groups today, although I’ve also heard people say that there may be more than 30 different tribes or groups if you count the smaller communities. Many Indigenous people are known for their great singing voices and their ability to hold their liquor. They’re also often described as warm, friendly, and generous. Some well-known Taiwanese singers also have Indigenous heritage, including A-Mei, one of Taiwan’s most famous singers.
When I heard about an Indigenous music festival, I imagined it would be a big, lively event packed with people who love music and Indigenous culture. I pictured one Indigenous singer after another taking the stage, with live music, singing, and a really energetic atmosphere. But unfortunately, I arrived way too early. On top of that, the weather was hot and humid, and I started sweating just standing outside. So instead of getting close to the stage, I wisely stayed far away under the shade of a tree and watched the preparations from a distance. I was actually hoping I might get to hear some of the singers rehearsing before the show started. But apparently, the performers were also smart enough to avoid the heat. They didn’t seem too interested in doing a full rehearsal under the blazing sun. Most of them would only show up for a few minutes, check the equipment or go through a few things on stage, and then disappear again pretty quickly.
After that, I wandered over to the Indigenous market area, where there were quite a few interesting booths selling traditional Indigenous foods, accessories, handicrafts, and other local products. When it comes to Indigenous alcohol, most people would probably immediately think of millet wine. Millet is considered a sacred crop by many Indigenous communities. It plays an important role in traditional ceremonies and rituals, and it’s also been used to make traditional drinks for generations. Millet wine is often slightly sweet and sour, with a relatively low alcohol content, so it can be surprisingly easy to drink. Before you know it, you may find yourself taking one sip after another. As I walked past one of the booths, I saw the owner grilling some salted pork. Salted pork is another traditional Indigenous food. Traditionally, large amounts of salt or millet wine were used to marinate and preserve the meat. You can actually find similar salted pork being sold in traditional markets, but I figured the version made by an Indigenous vendor should be the more authentic one. Unfortunately, because the weather was so hot and humid, there weren’t many people walking around the market. Even the vendors didn’t seem particularly interested in calling out to passersby or trying to attract customers. As a result, the whole market felt unusually quiet and deserted.