La Voile is Breath of Fresh Air

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If travel takes you to Boston, set course for La Voile on Newbury Street. Dine as if you landed in Southern France. Brasserie by menu, bistro by atmosphere, loved by all.

Merriam-Webster defines a bistro, as "a small or unpretentious restaurant, a small bar or tavern, or nightclub." Often small family-owned and operated, bistros are typically quite simple. You will likely see the charming chalkboard menu now replicated in home design catalogs and cafes all over. Wine is often served in carafes or sturdy glasses.

The term brasserie is older and is defined as "an informal usually French restaurant serving simple, hearty food." Almost all the references include the beer, choucroute (sauerkraut), and sausages. Other hearty fare is described as typical to brasserie menues: cheeses, ham, sandwiches.

There are still plenty of different opinions about the two terms. One reference points to the "fact" that bistros are often "quite chic" and that "brasseries serve late." Which determines what is what? Chic décor or unadorned family spot? Late night spot with music? Transporting the concept to the US, something was bound to be lost in translation. Often you find the Russian army story: "Bistro!" is said to sound like "Hurry Up!" This seems to be in disfavor now. Perhaps the distinction is that a brasserie is a bar that serves food, while a bistro is a restaurant with a bar?

The South of France on Newbury Street
On Boston's tony Newbury Street, a relative newcomer is gaining converts. La Voile helps us none at all with the bistro versus brasserie question, calling itself "a brasserie by its menu and a bistro by its atmosphere." Well perhaps it helps some. Consensus says brasseries typically do have choucroute, sausages, beer on the menu, reflecting Alsatian origins. La Voile has those typical dishes. It also has Mediterranean dishes and those that are typical of Provence and the South of France. Fish soup and Bouillabaisse; fish served whole, de-boned table side.

The name, La Voile, means "sail" in French. The owners met in Cannes, in the South of France. As the story goes, one was a sailor, one a bistro owner. The sailor waited for better winds spending days in the bistro. The partnership was born and a Mediterranean chef was hired. The final team member is the Italian Espresso machine. This Southern French restaurant reminds us that the experience trumps the words. La Voile is steadily gaining favor among Boston's Francophiles and foodies.

La Voile is a rare treat and a welcome entry to the dining scene. Very few restaurants offer diners the opportunity to be transported. La Voile is just such a place. Aided slightly by its garden level setting, and having the street view mostly obscured, one can imagine you are on vacation in France.

The sponged walls with script ringing the ceiling and nautical details feel authentic, if a little too new to compare to most places you might find. But they don't remind you that you are in a representation of a concept, or make you think "theme-park restaurant." There are brass port-hole windows on the swinging kitchen doors and blue- and white-tiled bathrooms. Sailboat models in large glass encasements create visual separation in the rooms without robbing diners of light or hiding the bustle throughout. None of these feel touches feel over the top. The only thing that's missing is cigarette smoke and a dog at someone's feet. Service was good, too.

For example, a huge conference in town and a surprisingly beautiful Spring day meant a busier restaurant than expected on a recent visit. Tables are close and filled. Several dishes are served with tableside de-boning. Still, glasses were hardly empty before being refilled, bread was replenished, and warm. Completed dishes were promptly removed, and the server cracked a smile when he saw genuinely swooning diners.

The Food
Passing the cheese cart on the way to your table, you vow to save room for the cheese course. Then you see the menu. Dessert or cheese will have to wait for the next time.

An amuse bouche (a small bite or two sent by the chef to open your palate) might include escargot on a toast point. Terrines are offered in 2-3 varieties, and much more refined than rustic. These are light, smooth and rich. The menu is not “dumbed down” offering such items as Os a Moelle (marrow bones), foie gras, hearty fish soup with garlicky rouille and croûtons. Fish is served whole, de-boned tableside. Bouillabaisse was a true rendering rather than the ubiquitous version that gives more than a nod to San Francisco's Cioppino or New England's chowders.

Bistro or brasserie: waste no more time debating what to call them, just call them and make a reservation. Dinner in the South of France. No passport required.