Good morning, beautiful people, and happy new week to my amazing Needlework Monday family! 🧵❤️
✨ Today, I’m sharing the cutting and sewing process of the masterpiece behind this beautiful dress, made with Ankara and a beautiful combination of fabrics.
Every stitch tells a story, and every detail reflects creativity, passion, and the beauty of handmade fashion. 🪡✂️
May this new week bring us fresh inspiration, greater creativity, and beautiful opportunities to showcase our talents. 🙏❤️
How to Cut and Sew This Bustier Gown with Yoke and Two-Layer Flare
This tutorial explains how to cut and sew the Ankara outfit shown in the pictures, including the fitted bustier top, yoke, peplum, sleeves, back keyhole, and two-layer flare skirt.
Materials Used
3 yards Ankara fabric
5 yards top lining
Bust pad
1½ yards black fabric
Zipper
Matching thread
Tailor’s chalk
Measuring tape/ruler
Measurements
Shoulder: 16"
Bust: 40"
Bust point: 11"
Nipple to nipple: 8"
Under-bust length: 14½"
Under-bust circumference: 32"
Waist: 32"
Front waist length: 17"
Back waist length: 15"
Hip: 47"
Empire line: 25"
Sleeve length: 18"
Round sleeve: 14"/13"/12"
Full length: 44"
Yoke length: 7"
- Cutting the Bustier Top
Start by drafting the front bodice using the bust, waist, shoulder, bust point, nipple-to-nipple, and under-bust measurements.
For the bustier shaping, mark the bust point at 11 inches from the shoulder and use the 8-inch nipple-to-nipple measurement to position the bust darts/panels correctly. Shape the bustier from the bust area down toward the waist so the top fits the body neatly.
Use the 17-inch front waist length and 15-inch back waist length when shaping the bodice. Add the necessary seam allowance before cutting.
Cut the main Ankara pieces and duplicate the bodice pieces in the lining. Attach the bust pads securely between the outer fabric and lining.
- Cutting the Yoke and Neckline
For the yoke, use a 7-inch yoke length. Cut the front yoke.
For the front neckline, mark approximately 3½ inches by 3 inches, then shape the neckline neatly. The yoke is joined to the bustier section, creating the black upper portion seen on the front.
For the back, create the keyhole opening by cutting into the back neckline area. Finish the opening neatly and prepare it for the zipper.
- Cutting the Sleeves
Use the 18-inch sleeve length. Mark the sleeve circumference using the measurements 14 inches, 13 inches and 12 inches as you move down the sleeve.
Cut the sleeve in the black fabric. The sleeve is fitted and reaches approximately three-quarter length.
- Making the Peplum
After completing the bodice, cut the black peplum section. Divide the peplum into panels and flare each panel outward to create the pointed, structured shape shown around the waist.
Join the peplum carefully to the waistline, making sure the center front and side seams match properly.
- Cutting the Two-Layer Flare
For the flare, begin with the 32-inch waist circumference. Use this as your starting waist measurement when drafting the flare.
For the first layer, use 8 inches for the layer length. Cut and spread the flare evenly around the waist.
For the second layer, use the remaining length after subtracting the half length from the required skirt length. Continue the flare according to the 44-inch full-length measurement.
Cut the Ankara flare pieces, join them together, and attach the second layer beneath the first layer to create the fuller two-layer effect seen in the picture.
- Sewing and Finishing
Join the bustier sections carefully, press the seams, and attach the yoke. Join the sleeves, then attach them to the armholes.
Attach the peplum to the waistline and sew the Ankara flare to the bodice/waist section. Insert the zipper at the back.
Finally, hem both flare layers neatly, finish the neckline and sleeve edges, press the entire outfit, and check that all the panels and patterns align properly.
The finished result is the fitted Ankara and black outfit with a 7-inch yoke, bustier bodice, three-quarter sleeves, structured peplum, back keyhole, and two-layer flared skirt.
Front back and side view
Thanks for stopping by do have a lovely day.