Roughly 4 years ago I was rambling around The D-day landing beaches exploring what is left of the German defences which was part of the Atlantic Wall. What was achieved 76 years ago today is no small feat and many laid down their lives so that we would be free. This was something I have always wanted to do and has been on my to do list for many years.
Having explored most of the region from Pegassus bridge right through to all the landing beaches it is a massive area. I thought at the time I could cover it in 3 days and this was not the case. I am a Second World War nut and have no idea why this stuff fascinates me so much. I will have to go back at some point to cover everything else as I do believe it is important for everyone to see what took place.
I stayed in the town of Caen which was the region that held up the Allies for weeks on end. Once you visit the area you will understand why as the hedge rows that flank the fields and roads everywhere on the outlying regions are not your normal hedges. These obstacles are in some places 3 or 4 meters tall and are nearly as wide as they are high. This was an oversight by the Allied Command as they expected the British Forces who were given that area to breakthrough within days. A hedgerow is basically made up of sand and stone that has trees and bushes growing on it. This is a form or rampart that is not just a natural hedge, but a defensive barrier defining a farmers fields.
Many of the hedgerows have poppies growing in them today which tells a story on it's own. Poppies only grow once the soil has been disturbed and knowing what took place one can only imagine the devastation that happened here. Today it is peaceful and tranquil like nothing ever happened except for the tell tale signs of the poppies letting you know that isn't true.
The beaches were important as gaining a strategic base to land other troops and supplies was paramount. In some cases this was the easy part and it was luck of the draw which beach you were destined to land on. They had the shells from the navy vessels out at sea whistling over their heads and were running a gauntlet of gunfire from the German defensive positions. It must have been terrifying to be a part of this yet if needed I am sure the same would happen again today under the same circumstances.
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Mulberry Harbour pieces tell a story and is a sight to behold.
If you were walking along the beach today you would have no clue what transpired all those years ago. There are a few tell tale signs like the floating Mulberry harbour which is still there. These were barge type designs made out of concrete and floated across the channel and once in place then filled with water to give it a solid base. The inventiveness and technology back then was being pushed to their limits as they found answers to most problems that they faced.It is amazing what a war can do as during the 6 years of the Second World War we went from propellers on aeroplanes to jet engines. The German scientists involved with rocket propelled missiles went on to be the leaders of the space race for the USSR and the USA.
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A moving and humbling experience. Graves go as far as the treeline and then they start again and again and then you think that is it, but it all starts again like there is no end. This would only be for one beach landing.
A visit to Normandy is not complete until you visit the graveyards and each landing beach has their own. Only then does the scale of human loss become imaginable as the white crosses at each site are as far as the eye can see. Most of the fallen are men who sacrificed their lives in their teens and early twenties and hadn't even lived yet they are a part of history and will never be forgotten. I only realised once walking around that the crosses bear two names with one on each side so each cross is in fact representing two fallen soldiers.
This is one trip I highly recommend anyone undertakes as there is so much to do in the region. Yes there is history stuff around every corner, but then there is also the Calvados brandy which is world famous. I never found it expensive as the accommodation was reasonable and there are so many good places to eat with the local favorite amongst the locals being Moules Frites being Mussels and chips for around 4 Euros for massive portions. Just go if you can go as you will really enjoy it, but give yourself enough time as there is literally so much.
