"The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport."
- Kelly Slater -

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From the instant I read it,

there was nary a doubt in my mind as to how to deal with this week's 50 word challenge.

"Break" is the word of the week.

For me, there is only one primary, overriding meaning of that word.

Our sweet fellow Steemian, @jayna, threw down the gauntlet to write 50 words about "break."

There is one 'break' that is dear to my heart.

That break is...

my surfing home break.

Offshore breezes shred the wave tops.
Image courtesy of Roger Mosley and http://pixabay.com

Don't surf?

Then you'll never understand...

But I'd love for you to understand. Take up surfing, and you will.

Bottom turn on a perfect left...
Image courtesy of Kanenori and http://pixabay.com

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The Utter Joy of Surfing

by Duncan Cary Palmer

Crystal blue winter morning.

Trunking it, joy overcomes the chill.

An offshore Santa Ana shreds the wave tops. Brilliant rainbows sparkle in the air, visible only out here. We bob up and down, waiting for the perfect ride.

"Good morning, Duncan!"
"Good indeed!"

My home break; everyone knows my name.

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_FIN

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Crystal blue sky winter morning...
Image courtesy of Jennifer Beebe and http://pixabay.com

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P.S. If you have an "in" with anybody at Steemit, Inc. - Would you please ask them to get rid of these damn, extremely annoying "off-website" arrow/boxes? The have, overnight, made Steemit ugly. There are much better solutions.

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For an extensive collection of surfing stories,
please check out our Library Surfing Shelf - CLICK below:

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LOOK! Check out our amazing product:

Introducing: The SILVERengines proton - Image by @creatr
CONTACT US - Will Exchange for Steem

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Thanks for your time and attention.
You are why I'm here on Steemit!
I have very eclectic interests and hope, over time, to write about them all.

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⬇️To Check Out @creatr's World⬇️CLICK Each Image Below⬇️