During our trip to England, I booked half a week in the English Countryside. I chose Sudeley Castle as our destination. While I am far from royalty, my family resided at Sudeley Castle in the Sixteenth Century. The familial connection made this choice a no-brainer. Several years ago, the current owners at Sudeley converted inert buildings on the property into apartments. The quaint cottages sit a short walking distance (across a sheep pasture) from the castle. As such, we were able to experience the pastoral qualities of rural England with a modicum of modern convenience.
Sudeley Castle has a storied history that dates back beyond the Norman Invasion. Visitors to the castle will see heavy influences from the Tudor period, although the rich history of the location is displayed in exhibits that showcase remnants of the ancient origins of the locale. It is situated on the outskirts of Winchombe in Gloucestershire, in an area known as the Cotswolds. The indication of earliest residents to the region can be found in a Long Barrow located at Winchcombe, which dates to 3000 BC.
Prior to the Norman invasion, Winchcombe was one of the cities favored by the King of Mercia, King Offa. It was a chief city of the Mercian Kingdom. Roman villas sprung up in the area between 500 and 800 AD. The region was settled by an Anglo-Saxon tribe known as the Hwicci. A Benedictine Abbey was built here at the beginning of the Ninth Century, completed in 811. It is believed that Sudeley was given to one King Ethelred’s daughter, Goda, as a wedding present. Her son, Ralf, inherited the property and was established Earl of Hereford. At the time of the Norman invasion, the property was retained by Ralf’s son, Harold, although he was not allowed to retain the title of Earl.
The castle later became the contentious location of various battles and civil wars, causing numerous transfers of deed. Harold took the surname de Sudeley. His family picked the wrong side against King Stephen. The property was seized and used as a garrison. It was destroyed in 1139 as a result. In 1367, when the 9thLord de Sudeley was killed in Spain, the property was inherited into the Boteler family. In 1442, the castle was placed at its current location by Ralph Boteler, using his spoils of the Hundred Year War. Boteler supported Lancaster in the War of the Roses and was later forced to sell Sudeley to the King in 1469. In 1486, the castle was given to Jasper Tudor, Duke of Bedford, who held it until his death.
In 1547, the property was transferred to Sir Thomas Seymour. Seymour was Katherine Parr’s lover, and later married the Queen following Henry VIIIs death. It is this relationship that brought Parr to the Castle, where her remains were discovered centuries later. Seymour was executed the following year for treason and misdemeanors against the King and Crown. This paved the way for the property to land in the hands of my own family in 1554. The Baron Chandos was given Sudeley after his suppression of Wyatt’s Rebellion at the Tower of London, where he served as Lieutenant of the Tower. The castle remained with the family for the next century, where it was used in numerous military campaigns leading to the decision to “slight” the castle so it could no longer be used as a military garrison.
The castle remained barren for two centuries before the discovery of Katherine Parr’s remains in 1782. In 1810 the property was sold to the Marquis of Buckingham, who later sold the property to the Dent family in 1837. Under the Dent family, particularly Emma Dent, the castle underwent major reconstruction. The castle was bequeathed to Emma Dent’s nephew, Henry Dent Brocklehurst, whose family remains in possession of the castle. The castle served numerous purposes during this time, to include housing a POW camp during WWII and serving as a “safe house” for much of the Tate Gallery’s picture collection. In 1969, the family decided to open the castle as a tourist attraction, an undertaking that spanned two years. The castle continues to serve the dual role of tourist attraction and private residence. A delicate balance that maintains the rich history of the property while providing a source of revenue to maintain the property.
Chapel where Katherine Parr's casket was discovered
Sudeley Castle is closed during the winter months. The castle opens to visitors at 10:00 AM and closes at 5:00 PM. The castle has a large grass parking area adjacent to the gift shop, where visitors are admitted. The price for admission is L16.50 for adults, L7.50 for children three through fifteen and free to children under three. They offer a family ticket for two adults and two children for L43. During certain times, private areas of the castle are also open for tours for an additional fee. Admission is free for visitors who stay at the cottages.
Tours of Sudeley Castle are self-guided. The castle has expansive gardens with well-marked walking trails to point visitors in the right direction. The trail leading to the castle takes visitors through an old stable, adjacent to a fish pond, which offers an excellent view of the castle (and photograph opportunity). The trail continues on below the tower, where Winchcombe Abbey once stood. Remnants of the Abbey (in the form of broken columns and carved stone) lie adjacent to an outbuilding along with a sign describing their origins. The stairs take visitors up to the exterior of the castle, near the restaurant area.
As you walk around the tower, there is a display made of tiles recovered from the ancient roman villas from the region. These tiles have been arranged to form a mosaic reminiscent of what one might have found during that era. A couple of other artifacts from the fifth or sixth century are also on display here. This exhibit overlooks Winchcombe and provides a spectacular view of the hills and valley. After passing by the tower, which still shows evidence of prior battles (or slighting), visitors may enter the castle to view the exhibits from the Tudor period, as well as the extensive collection of artifacts gathered by Emma Dent. The exhibits include Tudor era costumes and a tribute to Katherine Parr. As you descend back to the entrance area, you will find an exhibit of various small artifacts from the pre-Norman era. Toward the cafeteria, there is also a rack of costumes for young visitors to dress up in period clothing.
As you move further into the castle grounds, you will find a room that was restored much as Katherine Parr would have had it. This part of the castle dates back to the Twelfth Century and includes several portraits and other period decorations. There is also a guest book, so don’t forget to sign in! Exiting to the rear of this section of the castle you will find St. Mary’s church. This small, amazing church houses an exhibit that portrays Katherine Parr “laying in state” although the exhibit is a mannequin. After the body was exhumed from beneath the stone floor, it was later placed within a sarcophagus, which is located behind the display.
After exploring the castle and church, you can spend plenty of time exploring the manicured, award-winning gardens. In addition to the garden paths, there is also a pheasantry exhibit that includes an extensive collection of fowl. Peacocks, owls and pheasants are housed in cages arranged in rows on either side of a walking path. This includes several species of rare and endangered pheasants that have been housed at Sudeley as part of a breeding and conservation program. The paths will bring you back around the exterior of the property toward the gift shop admission area.
If you decide to stay at the cottages, the price is very affordable. Especially with the free admission to Sudeley Castle. Parking at the cottages is available behind the buildings and was adequate for all the cars during my visit. However, I did have to park up a narrow lane in a grassy area. Although there were numerous guests, there was still room for more cars to park. I believe I paid under L400 for three (weekend) nights which included linens, towels, coffee and tea self-service, admission to the castle and VAT taxes. The pricing fluctuates throughout the year. It is good to schedule in advance. While planning my own vacation, there were several dates already sold out due to weddings.
Winchcombe offers a scenic, historic town center that is short walk up a narrow alley from the cottages. Here, you will find several restaurants, a bakery and meat stores. I found the price of meals in England, Winchcombe included, to be a bit expensive compared to the United States. If you stay in the cottages, you have all of the materials to cook your own meals, which is one way to save money. We only cooked one meal at the cottage, opting to dine in town, or on the road as we explored the countryside. We took three meals in Winchcombe. The town is also interesting to explore on foot. Historical markers are dotted around the community explaining a brief history of the various buildings and streets. There is also a Tesco grocery store just a couple miles beyond Winchcombe if you are driving.
Sudeley Castle was the highlight of my England trip. Aside from my familial connections to the area, I was enamored by the decadent history of the area that dates back thousands of years. The castle itself was a worthwhile trip, providing a glimpse into the romantic Tudor period, along with numerous examples of other period artifacts. The gardens were a worthwhile diversion as well. The sights, sounds (and dare I say “smells?”) of the English countryside provide visitors with a memorable experience. I would highly recommend a visit to Sudeley Castle and the surrounding Cotswolds.
All photos are my own. They may be reproduced with prior permission.
