I visited the Pisac Inca Market following a visit to the nearby Pisac Inca Ruins. Both stops were part of an organized tour. We visited on a Thursday, when the market was in full swing, but not nearly as bustling as they are on Sundays. If you are looking for handicrafts, this is the place to buy them.
Opinions are mixed regarding the quality and value to be found in Pisac. Our guide advised us to buy Alpaca textiles during a visit to another small market in Caicay, which I did. I also ended up purchasing a sweater in Pisac for a few dollars cheaper. The quality issue remains to be seen. I was happy with both purchases.
Pisac is known for its jewelers. As our bus came down from the ruins, we entered the narrow alleyways off the main street headed towards the market. I was amazed as our full-sized tour bus navigated the narrow alleys. I don't think we had more than a foot or two of clearance on either side of the bus. The bus stopped in the middle of an alley and allowed us to disembark and head to a local jewelry store.
At the jewelers, we were treated to a demonstration on how local jewelry is made. This included instructions on how to tell products made from pure silver apart from blends. We watched as craftsmen worked with the metal and stone to create custom pieces. After an interesting class on the process of making jewelry, we were given time to visit the shop and explore the nearby market. I purchased a set of earrings for my wife before departing to the nearby market.
Most of the stalls in the market are fairly passive. If you stop to look at their crafts, the merchant will attempt to sell you something. They are persistent once you show a definite interest in a product but otherwise do not hassle you. If you assure them you are not interested, they leave you alone. The same cannot be said for the street merchants, most notably those who sell paintings.
I found the painting merchants were fairly aggressive everywhere we went with the exception of the actual art stores we visited in Lima and Ollantaytambo. The merchants that carry their folios with them are very aggressive and relentlessly persistent. I commented on one young man's NC State ball cap and couldn't shake him. After a great deal of haggling, I ended up purchasing an attractive watercolor from him for about fifteen US dollars. I tend to doubt that these street merchants actually create the art, since I find it hard to believe they can create art while peddling it. On rare occasions, you will find an artist creating his work at a small stall or shop. In these instances, it is fairly easy to tell which artwork they have created themselves.
The bottom line when it comes to artwork? If you like it, buy it. Does it matter whether the guy who sells it painted it? Not really. It would be different (in my mind) if the person selling it were exploiting the artist. At the price point for these paintings, there is not a lot of exploitation going on either direction. For original artwork, the prices are incredibly cheap. You don't have to buy art in Pisac, you will find similar artwork in every tourist market you visit.
What you will find in Pisac is jewelry and ceramics. I mentioned that I had purchased jewelry. I opted not to purchase any of the ceramic products for two reasons. First of all, we were traveling light, packing only our backpacks. This gave us very limited space to carry larger items. Second, ceramics tend to be fragile. We the constant moving from one location to another, I was concerned that the ceramics would not survive.
After purchasing my watercolor, my wife and I browsed the small shops arranged throughout the main square. The prices appeared to be consistent with what we had heard about Pisac (slightly cheaper). I found an attractive sweater that I wanted to purchase for my daughter at one of these small shops. It was an interesting dark green sweater with attached hoodie. For about eighteen US dollars, it was mine. I managed to pack it into my already burgeoning backpack before rushing back to the bus. Our stop provided us limited time to fully experience Pisac. It was an interesting town that I would have gone back to visit if I had time. Haggling is an expected practice at the market.
These young girls were taking photos with tourists for one sole. The younger girl was less than thrilled about taking her picture with a bunch of strangers. I gave her her own sole, although I wonder if doubt either of them get to keep the change they hustle in the market.
Pisac is located about an hour away from Cuzco. Cab fare from Cuzco to Pisac runs around fifteen to twenty dollars each direction. I traveled as part of a tour, so the cost of our bus was covered in the tour. If you take a cab from Pisac to the ruins, expect to pay a premium. For a short six-mile ride, expect to pay ten US dollars each direction. You can also check into hiring a private car during your visit. They can often be very reasonable. We traveled by private car following our organized tour and paid a decent premium for the service. However, it can be worth the piece of mind to know you have transportation back to your point of origin. Finding a reliable taxi can be challenging depending on where you are heading. In Pisac, they appeared to be readily available.
If you are part of an organized tour, you may not have adequate time to fully explore the market at Pisac. While there are markets throughout the Sacred Valley, this market is known for jewelry and ceramics. It is also known for excellent prices and a vibrant community experience, especially on Sundays. I had enough time to do some light shopping, but not nearly as much time as I could have spent exploring the market. It would have been nice to hike the trail that leads from the market to the ruins, as well. If you are able to schedule a full day in Pisac, you may find it preferable to the whirlwind stop you will experience as part of an organized tour. From Cusco, you can do this trip on your own by hiring a cab.
All photos are my own. They may be used with prior permission.
