Welcome back to Hour Three...Now...the wave you have been waiting for...
As a surfer or any athlete might admit when their time has come and acknowledges they are no longer in their prime. Stretching and understanding your bodies language communicating with YOU using NO words...but feelings?
I realized this over the decades of surfing that my body talks to me saying...
1
2
3
That's right!
1st wave ok...
2nd wave, eh maybe...
3rd wave... :)))
Dropping in on my 3rd "Perfect Wave of the Day" as though I prefer going frontside, but backside going left had the better shape which a mental picture starts to appear in my mind like seeing myself surfing this wave ALL the way to sandy shores...
(quickly places foot on surfboard)
As I am going left backside I immediately have to carve and bottom turn to position myself to get the maximum ride along the shoulder of the wave. No time for anything fancy or cutbacks or airs or floaters...
Just ride this puppy ALL the way!
Can you picture someone literally walking on water in fast forward and not paddling or swimming back to shore in slow motion?
That's right!
I just blasted fast forward right onto the sandy shore pretty much without getting my feet as wet... (steps off board onto sand)
Well...
Thanks for reading and hope to see you ALL back soon!
Keep STEEM N ON,
Frank
(steps out of the office)
Everyone have Great Weekend!
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@cassidyandfranks