A Verdant Escape in the Heart of Istanbul: A Journey Through Fethi Paşa Korusu
Istanbul is a city of layers historical, architectural, and sensory. While the towering minarets of Sultanahmet and the modern skyscrapers of Levent often dominate the skyline, there is a quieter, greener side to this metropolis that locals hold dear. Among these hidden gems, Fethi Paşa Korusu (Fethi Pasha Grove) stands out as a sprawling sanctuary on the Asian side of the city. Nestled on the slopes of Üsküdar and Paşalimanı, this historic grove offers a respite from the urban chaos, a place where the air is scented with pine and the blue of the Bosphorus peeks through ancient foliage.
Our visit to this magnificent grove was more than just a walk; it was a sensory immersion into the natural and historical fabric of Istanbul. From panoramic vistas to a traditional breakfast that defines Turkish hospitality, here is an exploration of the magic of Fethi Paşa Korusu.
The Historical Significance
Before stepping into the greenery, it is worth noting the history that gives this place its name. The grove is named after Ahmed Fethi Paşa, an Ottoman diplomat, administrator, and industrialist during the 19th century. He was a man of great vision who served as an ambassador to Vienna and Paris, and he played a pivotal role in the establishment of the first Turkish museums.
Once a private estate, the grove eventually passed into the hands of the Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality. Today, it serves as a public park, preserved with the intent of keeping the "Green Istanbul" alive. Walking through its gates feels like stepping back into an era when the hills of the Bosphorus were covered in dense forests, long before the concrete expansion of the modern era.
Gazing Upon the Bosphorus:
The first thing that strikes you upon climbing the winding paths of Fethi Paşa Korusu is the view. In Turkish, we have the phrase "etrafı seyretmek"—to observe the surroundings with leisure and appreciation. There is no better place in Üsküdar to do this.
As we ascended the hills, the Bosphorus Strait revealed itself in segments. First, a glimmer of turquoise between the trunks of centuries-old plane trees, then a sweeping panorama of the European side. From the various observation points throughout the grove, you can see.
The First Bosphorus Bridge: Stretching like a ribbon of steel connecting two continents.
The Ortaköy Mosque: Its elegant silhouette standing proudly on the water’s edge across the strait.
Dolmabahçe Palace: Distant but distinct, reflecting the grandeur of the late Ottoman Empire.
Watching the ferries glide across the water, leaving white trails in the deep blue, creates a meditative atmosphere. The height of the grove provides a perspective that makes the bustling city feel like a silent movie playing out below.
A Walk Among the Giants.
The true soul of Fethi Paşa Korusu lies in its flora. This isn't just a manicured park; it is a living ecosystem. We took a long, deliberate walk through the trees, following the paved and unpaved paths that crisscross the hillside.
The Flora
The grove is home to a diverse array of trees, including:
Pine Trees: Their scent is most potent in the early morning dew.
Plane Trees (Çınar): Massive, ancient trees that offer wide canopies of shade.
Horse Chestnuts and Judas Trees: In the spring, the Erguvan (Judas trees) paint the slopes in vibrant shades of pink and purple, a traditional symbol of the Bosphorus.
The experience of walking here is tactile. You hear the crunch of dry leaves underfoot, the rhythmic chirping of birds that seem entirely unbothered by the city nearby, and the occasional rustle of a squirrel darting across a branch. The steepness of the terrain makes it a decent workout, but the cool breeze coming off the sea ensures that the walk remains refreshing rather than exhausting.
The Ultimate Turkish Tradition:
No visit to an Istanbul grove is complete without the culinary reward at the end of the trail. After our long walk, we settled into the municipal café located within the grove for a traditional Serpme Kahvaltı (spread breakfast).
In Turkish culture, breakfast is not just a meal; it is a ceremony. It is an exercise in variety, color, and conversation. Our table was quickly covered in small plates, leaving barely any room for our tea glasses.
The Anatomy of Our Breakfast
The Cheeses: A selection ranging from salty white cheese (beyaz peynir) to stringy kaşar and the rich, regional tulum.
The Olives: Both green and black, cured in olive oil and herbs.
The Preserves: Homemade jams strawberry, apricot, and the quintessential sour cherry paired with a thick slab of kaymak (clotted cream) and honey.
The Savories: Warm peynirli börek (flaky pastry with cheese), spicy sucuk (Turkish sausage) cooked in a copper pan, and menemen (eggs scrambled with tomatoes, green peppers, and spices).
The Bread: Fresh, crusty ekmek and sesame-crusted simit, perfect for dipping into the olive oil or spreading the honey.
We sat there for hours, sipping endless glasses of tulip-shaped Turkish tea. The "spread" nature of the meal encourages you to linger, to pick at a bit of cheese, then a bit of honey, all while the Bosphorus breeze keeps the air cool and the conversation flowing.
