Chinese e-commerce platform Shein is particularly targeted by the legislation. © Kirill Kudryavtsev, AFP
The fast fashion phenomenon is largely responsible for the increase in disposable clothing consumption. A steady growth, widespread across the world, that raises concerns and suspicions, but for which no one seems to be taking concrete steps to counter it. Except for France, which has recently implemented stricter initiatives to tackle this phenomenon, after already introducing measures last year to encourage clothing repair and discourage compulsive shopping. Between 2010 and 2023, in fact, the number of garments placed on the market in France increased from 2.3 to 3.2 billion (+39%), equal to more than 48 additional items per person per year (35 of which are thrown away, according to the environmental agency Ademe).
Approved on June 10 with an overwhelming majority (337 votes in favor and only 1 against), the law against fast fashion targets fast fashion producers, those who adopt industrial and commercial practices characterized by the shortening of the product life cycle (planned obsolescence and low quality), mass production (many styles in various colors and sizes), and little to no incentive for product repair. Practically 90% of fashion companies fall under this definition, but in this case, French lawmakers have focused especially on ultra fast fashion giants Shein and Temu, deliberately excluding European companies like Zara, H&M, and Kiabi, a move that has angered several environmental groups, including Friends of the Earth.
Companies falling within the parameters defined by the law, which will be further detailed in a specific decree, will be required to inform customers about the environmental impact of the products sold, while also promoting repair and recycling practices. These obligations are joined by a tax on products deemed “less sustainable”: starting with a maximum of 5 euros per item, which could rise to 10 euros by 2030, but will never exceed 50% of the retail price. Considering that many items are sold between 2 and 5 euros, the effectiveness of this tax remains questionable: deterrent, yes, but with potentially minimal financial impact on the companies involved.
Another new measure involves the introduction of an eco-score, assigned based on environmental criteria such as water consumption, CO₂ emissions, effects on biodiversity, etc. Although not yet mandatory, a tool called Ecobalyse is already available, capable of calculating the environmental impact in numerical form, from 1 to infinity. The system, which came into effect this month, is currently voluntary, but brands are strongly encouraged to use it: otherwise, they may be evaluated by external bodies.
However, the most controversial aspect of the law concerns communication. Retailers like Shein and Temu, lacking a widespread physical presence, have built their success primarily through media advertising and, above all, influencer promotion on social media. But fast fashion, like alcohol and cigarettes, harms the environment (and therefore health), and for this reason, it can no longer be advertised. Each violation is subject to a fine of up to 100,000 euros.
Tough times, then, for those influencers who have enriched themselves by promoting ultra fast fashion through content on Instagram, TikTok, and other platforms. Daily shopping hauls, normalizing outfit changes every day, encouraging compulsive buying, these are not just pieces of content, but acts that carry significant environmental and social consequences. Influencers, therefore, also come under the law’s scrutiny, because they are not just “people” but actual trendsetters. Promoting 5-euro garments produced under questionable labor conditions and with poor-quality materials is a form of demand manipulation that feeds the throwaway culture. Visibility is not neutral: it is responsibility. Content creators are responsible for the messages they convey to their audience, no matter how large or small.
For this reason, the law prohibits advertising and sponsored posts for ultra fast fashion brands, influencer marketing campaigns or affiliate links to banned brands, and any sponsorship aimed at minors or children. Even unsponsored content may be removed or downgraded if deemed likely to increase the visibility of the targeted brands. By limiting advertising and social media content, France hopes to slow overconsumption.
The law represents a step forward in the fight against the environmental and economic impact of fast fashion, and it sends a clear signal to companies and consumers. However, the fact that the regulation focuses almost exclusively on two brands, excluding several European companies with similar responsibilities, is a missed opportunity. Protectionism seems to have prevailed over the ambition to lead the entire sector toward more sustainable practices. Still, this law may serve as a stimulus for broader, more coherent, and shared initiatives throughout Europe and beyond.