Hello friends. Borghetto sul Mincio is one of Italy's most beautiful villages. This village is located just 12 kilometers from the famous Lake Garda and 30 kilometers from Verona. On our last journey we visited the ghosts inhabiting an old tower, walked across the Ponte Lungo bridge, which transforms into a festive banquet table stretching for miles once a year, listened to the sounds of the mill wheels in narrow ancient streets and ended our trip at Sigurta Park, filled with flowers and home to the largest tulip trees in Southern Europe.
The Borghetto area has been inhabited since the Iron age. Traces of Gallic, Etruscan and Roman presence have been found here. However, the settlement's foundation dates back to the Lombard period. The name itself comes from this time, meaning fortified settlement. This area located on the banks of the Mincio river and surrounded by the morainic hills of Garda, was a perfect location for the construction of a royal estate. It was used as a toll collection point for crossing the river and traveling along the Mincio. For a thousand years, the Mincio crossing became a significant route in the region. As early as the 10th century, pilgrims would walk across a crossing here, while paying to use other bridges over the river in different areas. However, this saving came at the cost of wet feet and clothes.
Later a small monastery called Santa Maria was built on the left bank of the river, which became the residence of the Knights Templar. The monastery was used to assist passing pilgrims. Today only the apse remains and no trace of the ancient bridge is left. At one time, the noble Scaliger family from Verona ruled here. During their reign, a majestic castle was built on a hill, along with fortifications around Borghetto and a 16 kilometer long defense line was constructed to protect the Verona lands from attacks by Milan and Mantua. The defense took place at the current location of the Ponte Lungo bridge. This bridge was built under the rule of the Visconti Duke. Under Gian Galeazzo's leadership, it was constructed in just three years. With a fortification and a garrison on top, it served as a long dam.
According to Gian Galeazzo’s plans, the bridge could transform into a dam when necessary, blocking the river flow and draining the surrounding lakes of Mantua. This allowed the Milanese to attack the city of the Gonzaga Dukes, deprived of water protection. The bridge is 650 meters long and 25 meters wide, extending all the way to the castle. From here, we admired the highest towers of the castle.
Both the castle and its story are magnificent. This place is definitely worth a visit. I recommend it to all travelers coming here. I made a big trip to Italy and this is one of the most beautiful places I’ve seen. The highest and best-preserved tower Torre Tonda, survived a powerful earthquake and dates back to a much older 10th-century castle. In the 13th century the Scaliger family built their castle around this surviving tower. Although two drawbridges and much of the complex are no longer preserved, I ascended to the castle via the remaining bridge. From here, the Veronese knights would watch for any enemies on the horizon.
There is an interesting legend about the castle. I have always loved legends. When the last heir of the Scaliger family was poisoned, the region passed into the hands of Giacomo di Carrara, the lord of Padua and Andriola Da Parma was appointed as the governor. However, it wasn’t long before rumors spread that Andriola was negotiating with the growing Venetian power to surrender the castle. The governor was accused of treason, his sword was broken and he was dishonorably executed in Verona. However, his body disappeared that very night. Since then it is said that on full moon nights, his spirit wanders among the towers of the castle, searching for his sword and the honor he lost.
Still the Venetians reached these lands at the beginning of the 15th century and quickly pushed back the Milanese who had been here for a short time. For the two centuries before Napoleon came to Italy, Borghetto led a peaceful life focused on agriculture. Speaking of Napoleon. The place that is now the city library was once where Napoleon Bonaparte stayed. At that time, he was not yet an emperor but a 27 year old young general. During this time, wars were being fought between France and the Austrian Empire. The French troops were stationed along the river. Napoleon had rented this villa for himself. Early one morning, while shaving and preparing himself, Austrian soldiers suddenly appeared on the side of the road. Napoleon, alerted at the last moment, managed to escape by joining his troops without fully dressing and with his jacket unbuttoned. Imagine, that morning could have completely changed world history.
Valeggio is located to the east of the castle. It’s very enjoyable to walk through its sun-drenched old streets. Also parking in Valeggio is very convenient because you can easily walk to all the surrounding tourist spots. Sigurta Park is on one hill, while the castle is on another. Between these hills, there is a beautiful park that leads to the historic center of Borghetto. During the Venetian era mills were built here to grind grain and peel rice husks. The village's mills operated continuously until industrial production took over. In the late 20th century thanks to tourism, Borghetto found new life and old buildings were given new functions.
Shortly after entering Borghetto, you can see the remnants of the mills. But we preferred to walk along a side street closer to the center. Here is one of the three mills that has survived in the town's historic center. In fact, the wheel still turns. There is also a place called the Lovers corner, which is overflowing with locks attached to its railings. These locks almost cover the mill wheel.
A short detour from the main road led us to the 18th-century neoclassical Church of San Marco Evangelista. This church was built on the ruins of a Romanesque church dedicated to Santa Maria from the 11th century and an ancient Knights Templar settlement. Today, only the apse of the old church remains, visible behind the new church.
When you visit this incredible place, you forget all your problems. You cannot say you've been to Borghetto sul Mincio without trying the famous Nodo d’Amore tortellini. This traditional dish is made by carefully preparing a meat filling inside thin dough, then serving it with melted butter and sage. In June Borghetto hosts a colorful festival dedicated to these tortellini. This grand event has even been included in the Guinness world records. Imagine a table set on a historic bridge under a starry sky…
For the guests a table longer than a kilometer is set up and several hundred kilos of tortellini are prepared. Of course, other local products and wines are also unforgettable. The celebration ends with a torch-lit procession and a spectacular fireworks show. There’s a romantic story related to these tortellini that dates back to the 14th century, during the time when the area was under the rule of the Duke of Milan. When soldiers in the Duke’s garrison took a break, they noticed a group of river fairies dancing in an open field. Realizing they were spotted, the fairies tried to flee, but they were chased by Captain Malko. When Malko locked eyes with one of the fairies, Sylvia, they fell in love at first sight. However, despite their oaths of love, Sylvia had to return to the river with the first light of dawn. In memory of their eternal love, a golden silk scarf was left tied with a strong knot on the shore. This delicate and thin shape of the tortellini recalls this story. It seems that every home and restaurant here prepares these tortellini.
We reached the heart of Borghetto, on the bridge that connects the left and right banks of the Mincio river. On this wooden bridge and around Borghetto, Italian director Luchino Visconti filmed his historical melodrama Senso. To the north of the castle, on a hill, stretches the gardens of Sigurta park. This park has been repeatedly awarded as one of the most beautiful parks in Italy and Europe. The total length of the park exceeds 10 kilometers and to see all the picturesque corners, you can rent a bike or a golf cart.
In the early 15th century, agricultural land with a small flowered garden adjacent to the main house was located here. Over the centuries as the owners changed, the gardens were transformed according to the tastes and fashions of the new owners. In 1941 the land was purchased by pharmacist and industrialist Dr. Carlo Sigurta. The park was in a dilapidated state, but an accidental event helped bring the park back to life. A forgotten document was found, documenting the right to take water from the Mincio River for a fine of 15 lire. Thanks to this irrigation system and the new owner's great passion, the park bloomed again. In the following years, Carlo Sigurta opened the park to the public.
The cleanliness of the river and its banks, along with the preservation of these views, is in the hands of cultured citizens. I think the village is in safe hands.
I hope you enjoyed my trip today. Thanks for reading. See you in my next post.
