I don't really want this to turn into an epic series like the Chuuk Lagoon blogs but we will see how it goes.
A bit of geography first of all Bikini Atoll part of the Marshall Islands really is in the middle of nowhere in the Pacific Ocean 0ver 500 miles from Majuro the capital of the Marshall Islands And over 200 to Kwajaline which is the nearest place you can now fly into to get there.
Got to love Google Maps
The remoteness of Bikini is one of the main reasons the Americans used it for atomic testing in the late 40s and 50s. The island's families were relocated after WW2 in 1946 and that whole story is a very sad one of they were pushed from island to island with the promise of returning home that can never happen to become dispossessed people.
Over 12 years from 1946 23 atomic tests were carried out some air bursts and some underwater detonations 95 ships of all kinds were assembled from battleships and Cruisers like the Japanese Nagato and **German Prinz Eugen ** to an American aircraft carrier the USS Saratoga as well as various submarines like the USS Pilotfish. Not all the ships were sunk but those that did now sit at the bottom of the lagoon is around 60m so only technically qualified divers can go there.
Probably one of the most famous photos from the Baker subsea test on July 25th, 1946. It's from the US National Security Archive (nsarchive.gwu.edu) and no I didn't have to hack it.
Getting to dive Bikini these days is purely liveaboard itinerary's there were attempts to run shore-based trips back in 2001 but these failed after a few years due to background contamination and the cost of importing everything. The old accommodations and airport are now abandoned.
Not exactly 5 star even if the price was.
Just getting to Bikini is a bit of a logistical nightmare as you first fly in via the US airforce base on Kwajalein which is part of the US missile testing program and as you can't stay there you get bussed with an armed guard to the ferry and on to Ebeye a small Island close by that acts as a dormitory for civilian workers on Kwaj. Accommodation is limited but there is one small hotel, I really can't recommend it. If your lucky a few days later your liveaboard will arrive and you can start the 20 hour trip to Bikini Atoll.
Not that the 20 hours is wasted if you can get a spot of Tuna fining in on the way. Yes, we were eating Tuna steaks and sashimi all week.
Oddly enough the first dive of the trip was not at Bikini but on the German Cruiser the Prinz Eugen. While it was part of the Baker Test it did not sink, German engineering for you, as was towed to Kwajaline for decontamination but unfortunately, it capsized in about 30m and now makes an excellent check dive for any divers visiting Bikini.
It was a big ship and the props are still only partially submerged.
A good chance to practice your wreck entry skills before the deeper wrecks in Bikini
It can be very disorienting with the wreck completely upside down.
Sorry, Hivers I promise next time there will be some wrecks in Bikini but I'll stop here as it's starting to get a bit long.