Have you ever been to a rustic place where time slowed down a few notches? If it weren't for the lightbox signage of a 24-hour convenient store and modern cars that whip past the two-lane national road, you might as well assume you're in a province dated back several decades ago?
Vigan and Taal Batangas seem to have that vibe. Yet there are many things about Argao that neither the two have. Can you guess?
Please don't get me wrong, I love Taal and Vigan to bits but before I start gushing about this charming town, why don't you take a sip of Argao's Tablea Hot Chocolate in Guilang first and we'll be right on the same page. Go on, have a bite of Torta de Argao and I'm sure you'll be as smitten as I am.
Argao is a first income class municipality of Cebu in the Philippines. It has a population of 72,366 divided into 45 barangays. It is 2 and a half hours drive down southeast from Cebu City. It is halfway between the city and the southernmost tip of Cebu island's Santander.
@iamyohann had previously made a feature showing Argao from the sky.
How to Get There?
Take a flight to Mactan International Airport. We often enjoy staying overnight in the city before embarking on the long drive first thing in the morning to avoid traffic.
By Rental Car
Book a rental car in advance via Cebu Easy Rent A Car. Just bring 2 valid IDs, a copy of your house bill, a security deposit, a delivery fee for easy pick-up, and delivery of the car at your hotel or the airport. They'd often request for your details via SMS before booking. We hired their services twice and both experiences were excellent. We drove their manual Kia Picanto and it was functional enough for us.
By Bus
A bus is an economical alternative. Take a bus at Cebu City's South Bus Terminal headed towards Dalaguete, Oslob, or Santander and ask to be dropped off at the Junction in the Poblacion of Argao.
By Van
There are tour vans available for groups or families. There are package tours and the price depends on your itinerary and deals coverage.
By Taxi
I just don't want to imagine how much the taxi meter's bill would be at the end of your long journey but yes, it's possible to take a cab to Argao from Mactan International Airport.
Here's a small map of Argao I created for BJs Seaside Tourists:
Things to Do and See in Argao
Scenic Heritage Walk & St. Michael the Archangel Parish Church
Take a stroll around Poblacion. Check out the heritage architecture within the Unity Plaza. Argao's Tourism office situated right at the entrance offers flyers for available hotels, restaurants, and guided tours should you want to find out more.
Argao Nature Park
A Php 5 entrance et voila. It's a park shaded by ancient trees. There used to be a small zipline and boat rides in a small lagoon but it was closed during our recent visit. School children and preoccupied teenagers were practicing their presentation for Linggo ng Wika (Filipino Language Week).
There were a few animals, caged love birds, rabbits, civets, and monkeys. What attracted my attention the most, were significant names about Argao's culture and heritage written in each gazebo hut.
If you're tired of walking, there's a massage cottage at the corner towards the end of the paved trail by blind masseurs.
It's currently a bit run-down, dark, and un-maintained. These photos were taken three years ago so they may not look as airy as the images.
Outside the gates just across the park is a children's playground in the middle of a fork that stretches towards a wide concrete road lined by benches. I enjoyed strolls around here overlooking the rice fields. This road is closed after 6 pm and most weekend and it's fun to see how it transforms into a pedestrian path and a jogger's lane.
Riverstone Castle
I found a medieval stone castle in the Philippines, in Jomgao, Argao. Wow ! (See how they rhymed? Lol) I heard the owners were renting it for Php 20k a month. During my last visit, it appeared to be abandoned. It looked fun and quirky during its glory days. The gates were closed however the last time we dropped by, but I was able to take a sneak peek. Sadly, this structure is currently abandoned and un-kept.
Trek, Dive, and Swim in Bugasok Falls
I have yet to go. We missed our opportunity while living here as most residents would. The Tourism Office offers assistance for a guide. Expect an environmental fee and a guide's fee for a group of 3. It's a 2-hour trek to get there after taking a 30-45 minute motorbike ride or habal-habal for Php 200 round trip. Dive, swim or enjoy canyoning in this majestic 20-meter height falls.
Spelunking in Balay sa Agta
Balay sa Agta means Bahay ng Kapre. It is a cave in Mt. Lantoy. One must go through a treacherous trail before reaching and entering the cave. Additionally, there are spooky folklores that would make the experience slightly more mysterious.
Mahayahay Beach and Argao Wharf
Picnic at the beach and indulge in Sutukil (Sugba- Tuwa- Kilawin) while you're at it. There are grill shacks along the beach strip. The car park would be around Php 50. It's a public beach so feel free to swim and have fun in the taupe sand and skimboard on clear waters.
Walk towards the wharf. They are recently building a seawall and baywalk connecting the wharf to Mahayahay Beach.
Check out the Hablon de Cebu Center in CTU (Cebu Technological University)
To explore Argao's culture, craft, and way of life, one must visit the Handloom Weaving Center in Cebu Technological University. CTU strives to pass down this tradition of handloom weaving to the new generation of students thus preserving the Argaoanon Weaver's tradition while creating a dependable source of income.
With the rising demand for organic fabric, Hablon de Cebu aims to focus on creating environment-friendly products by utilizing organic materials and transforming waste into fashionable items.
Delicacies
Here are some of the delicacies featured during Argao's La Torta Festival, the main fiesta at the plaza. The fiesta is held on September 28-29. It's usually a week-long event. Once you receive an invite, be prepared to visit and eat your way through houses laden with Lechon (roasted piglet) on the buffet table as the main highlight of the party.
Argao is known as the Torta Capital of Cebu. Torta is a Cebuano tart derived from the Spanish Tart but using Tuba (palm wine) as an ingredient to make it rise. My favorite torta is the OJ's brand after many attempts of trying out all brands.
Visit Guilang Tablea Factory and buy Tablea as presents. Visit any of the popular Torta Shops (OJ's, Jessie's, or Chitang's) and try them with a cup of the traditional Sikwate (hot chocolate made from Argao's Popular Tablea).
Explore Off the Beaten Paths in Argao
We spent considerable time driving, exploring roads and off the beaten paths looking for a house to rent. We came across much jaw-dropping beautiful landscape during our scenic road trips that most would miss when traveling on a short term basis.
I think the highlight of our stay in Argao would be discovering unknown spots. We took afternoon strolls along rural streets from Lamacan and towards the mountains. The sea view of the island of Bohol from the edges of Talaytay's mountain ridges was breathtaking. Some houses built up there are blessed daily with these scenic views. Continue driving on rough meandering paths on the mountain and you'll suddenly find yourself somewhere on Ylaya Taloot Road.
Where to Stay in Argao
BJs Seaside is my top choice.
BJ stands for Billy and Joy (It's not what you had in mind 😜 Nope not Beetle Juice lol). It is our favorite spot in Argao. This lovely B&B is personally run by the owners. We had such a wonderful 2-night stay here during our first stop that we decided to come back days after our Dalaguete-Oslob-Badian-Moalboal loop road trip for another 2-night stay. We later came back again for a 6- day long stay during our road trip continuation. They were able to accommodate our small car into their gated carport.
It's walking distance to the Cabecera de Argao, the fortified town center, and commercial area. We enjoyed a lot of afternoon walks here during our stay.
They have a lounge for the guests on the ground floor with a piano that opens up to a shaded lanai surrounded by the garden where we enjoyed both food and conversations.
Interesting to note that they run their electricity on solar power. The room is clean where we were able to fit my daughter's traveling crib. There are hot and cold showers and air conditioning. They also offer hot and cold drinking water via dispenser at the ground floor lounge. They have a rooftop deck with a gorgeous view of the church tower and the sea. Yet, we were happy enough hanging out at the lanai chatting with the couple and fellow travelers.
I was touched when Joy accompanied me to the local dentist when I had an emergency dental issue. I was also happy that my toddler had playmates, the couple's grandchildren at the time. The family offered to look after my then-toddler, which allowed my husband and me to relax a bit and enjoy Billy and Joy's company as well as other travelers. Their generosity, kindness, and warm hospitality made me and my husband have a great time in Argao.
Billy and Joy along with their family and staff made us feel like we're family vacationing in their home. We enjoyed scintillating conversations over drinks and great food. Oh, speaking of food, I had french toast with bacon (as shown in the photo) which was good, and brewed coffee! Having traveled to rural places, when you are served brewed coffee and not the 3 in 1 stick, that's a real treat right there.
We always return and we highly recommend it.
Acasia Pension House
Perfect for introverts like ourselves. The standard room doesn't come with breakfast but is well priced for what it offers. It has a spacious nicely designed AC room with a queen-size bed, a small porch and patio, parking space, a spacious well illuminated, and well-ventilated private toilet and bath. Guess what? There is a built-in heater! So enjoy a relaxing hot/cold water shower after a tiring day of spelunking and canyoning.
Acasia is ideal for long term rental. There are 2 bedroom units on the upper floor with a kitchen.
Extra bed, fridge, and extra towels can be requested at the reception for an additional cost.
The staff was friendly and accommodating. They allowed me to store my child's meds and yogurt in their fridge. They were also kind to offer mugs of hot water for our morning coffee and chocolate (I always traveled with my instant coffee jar and chocolate powder).
There is Wi-Fi at the reception which can be accessed outside, at the porch. It is quite difficult to get a signal once we are inside the room. There's a huge TV screen with cable channels. Thank goodness, they have Disney Junior which kept my daughter entertained.
Check-in time is at 2:00 PM and Check out time at Noon.
Baluarte de Argao
It is right by the sea and is a popular wedding venue.
Maayo Stay Hotel Argao
This property is situated along the coast of Argao's Poblacion which used to be a private subdivision by Primary Homes converted to a hotel community. They have a clubhouse pool that is worth mentioning here.
Coal Mountain Resort
Argawanons have highly recommended Coal Mountain Resort in Bgy. Linut-od as a must place to stay and visit. I have only seen it from the gate but, it's worth mentioning it here. It is an isolated nature site up on the hills. It has an underground tunnel exploration tour 70 feet below the ground. It serves as a demo tunnel for miners' safety training.
There's a hanging bridge canopy walk, conference hall, multi-purpose covered court, awesome fresh spring water pools with slides, a diving pool, resto-bar with karaoke.
Getting Around Argao and South Cebu
What if I want to explore Argao and the surrounding areas riding a motorbike? Where can I rent one? Check out the map above where the motorcycle rental is located.
Where to Eat
BJs Seaside (M. Abear St., Argao)
Specialties: International Cuisine. Open terrace dining. Their Thai Green Curry and Tom Yum are highly recommended. Fresh ingredients from their herb garden. Big portions. Their breakfasts are the best in town and one of the best on the mainland of Cebu.
Joy is such an excellent chef and we all agree that it's one of Argao's secret culinary gems. Each meal was something my husband and I excitedly looked forward to. You should try Joy's amazing mixed garden salad, ooh, and her spinach quiche! Her Thai green curry was flavorful and all the other dishes she prepared. She uses fresh aromatic herbs from her garden along with fresh produce.
Note: They require reservations in advance. They cater mostly to their guests. Open daily for Breakfast & Dinner except for Sundays. If you do manage to get the chance to try, Hands down the best food by far in the whole island of Cebu! They have a gifted chef. Hence their top ratings online.
Bake My Way Cakes + Pastries (Dr. T.S. Kintanar St. Poblacion Argao)
Affordable Budget Meals. They serve lunch and dinner. Breaded pork chop with rice + dessert. Open Tues-Sunday except for Mondays. They have opened another branch closer to the sea with a coin karaoke machine.
Nice 'n Lotlot (Argao Poblacion along the Highway next to 7Eleven)
It's a cafeteria-style eatery that serves ]delicious roasted chicken and some home-style meals. The best-roasted chicken in Argao I daresay!
624 Carlock Street Restaurant (Carlock St., Lamacan, Argao)
If you want to try the region's cuisine with a contemporary twist, this is a relaxing place to enjoy your dish. Open daily for Lunch from 11-2 pm and Dinner. Small portions though. It's located near Cebu Technological University.
Kafe Marco (Suico St. Talaytay, Argao)
A quaint house converted into a restaurant with international cuisine for the Filipino palate. Open from 10 AM to 10 PM
Carinderia ni Eton (National Highway, Barangay Langtad, right across GD Gas Station)
Bbq is their specialty and they are served after 5 pm. They are open for lunch serving homemade traditional cuisine in a canteen-style vibe. It's a roadside eatery and a popular lunch stop for long drives down south.
There are more places to eat on the map above but these are the ones that I would recommend. A Jollibee Fastfood just opened there last year. I have yet to try the restaurant inside the Maayo Stay Hotel.
My Takeaway
If you're looking for a place to unwind, Argao is uniquely special and Cebu's gateway to the amazing south. It doesn't only offer heritage sites, it offers both the best of the mountain and the sea with many unexplored terrains. Hardly you'll find tourists blocking your camera view. Here you'll be able to relax, reflect, and appreciate nature in silence.
I admit I am quite biased because we lived in Argao for almost three years. Argao was our home and it will always be a part of our family's story.
Perhaps, you could create your own there?
Here are nearby attractions which might be of interest to you:
Thank you for reading and have a lovely Sunday!
References:
Inspired by my original post
Argao Wikipedia
Hablon de Cebu CTU