Hidden away in Istanbul's Gulhane Park is the oldest standing monument to the glory of Rome in Turkey: the Column of the Goths.
Just outside the walled grounds of Topkapi Palace, Gulhane Park is largely a heavily wooded enclave. A few flower gardens adorn a wide, paved walkway through the park, but largely old walnut and oak trees reign here, many from the 1800s.
Rising up 18.5 meters, this solid Proconnesian marble column was placed here in the third or fourth century to commemorate Rome's victory over the Goths, a constant enemy of early Rome. Commissioned by either Claudius II Gothicus or Constantine I, this stone marker now stands in relative obscurity, alone in this stately park.
These four-sided informational markers accompany many of Istanbul's historic monuments. Offering just enough background for a moment's read, each side of these markers presents its story in Turkish, Arabic, English, and Greek.
Not far away from the Column of the Goths, other Roman ruins remain to remind us of Istanbul - and Turkey's - rich history. This crossroads between Europe and Asia has hosted many conquerors including the Mongols, Greeks, Romans, and Ottomans.
There is something quite mystical about these ruins. While still standing, many columns are tilted and lean to and fro. A slow-motion fall from grace through the centuries.
Throughout Istanbul, one can still find remnants of the religions brought here by the Greeks and Romans. My appreciation of the Ottoman's desire to allow history to transcend their own rise to power is great. Over their 600 year reign, surely the Ottomans had the opportunity to remove any and all traces of previous rulers and religions. And yet, here they remain.
I feel fortunate to have made my way to the Column of the Goths. The history here is important and adds to the rich backstory that I am learning about here in Turkey.
Gulhane Park is a lovely retreat from the bustling streets of the Fatih district of Istanbul. I would strongly recommend that when in the area, travelers visit this park, and have a gaze at the Column of the Goths.
Cheers!