#waterearth

Moving through the city on a large bike is daunting. Five lanes of seething disorganised traffic all heading in various directions is no place for a fledgling driver. I am glad I am on the back of the

Burnt to the ground in 1772 by the invading armies of the Thai, resurrected by the French and once again abandoned in the 1970s by the Khmer Rouge, Phnom Penh is transformed by the light. Daytime reveals

Listening to my partner prattle on about the history of Cambodia, I realise how little I know of the country. Beyond my flimsy recollections of The Killing Fields and Apocalypse Now, I’m only familiar