Let's Bonsai A Tree!
No these are not mug shots. This green shrub is a tree I am slowly developing for bonsai.
It has been growing very thick this summer with lots of lush green color. Some of the #branches are starting to look to me like there is too many #needles #suckering out from certain joints. My ultimate goal for this tree has been to train its natural shrub tendencies so it looks more like a tree form. This process will take years to achieve.
In this post, I will demonstrate how I tackled the issue of sucker growth with a few small changes, and show why it should be managed early to prevent permanently deformed branch shapes.
About This Tree
The cover photo displays the front and back view of the same tree.
Below is the tree from the side view.
Although this tree does not have a defined front yet, I prefer the top photo views because it shows movement of the trunk in a natural wavy shape. The #nebari under the soil line will likely play a larger role in determining the best front view for this tree. The roots are still being developed for thickness under the soil.
ID: 0001
Nickname: Ozma
Type: #Arborvitae
Age: 5 or 6 years
Grown: #yamadori (I think I cut it from the root where it was growing as a sucker weed)
Last repotting: 2016
This is a good example of a #branch that has produced too many #suckers in one place.
When multiple branches and needles emerge from a single location, it widens the branch in that area, distorting the natural branch shape. In bonsai terminology, this is called reverse taper. Reverse taper is when then #trunk or branch becomes thicker, rather than smaller, from base to tip. In this case, it becomes thicker, and then suddenly much smaller.
Correct taper should start thick, then become smaller, and smaller, very gradually, and smallest at the tip. Years of growth is what forms correct taper in nature, as the smallest growth usually emerges from the smallest tips on the furthest branch tips. On bonsai, correct taper has to be managed by removing any sucker growth along branches competing with secondary branches connected at the same zones.
To prevent growth of further reverse tapering in the branch, I decided to remove all connected branches and needles in this location, except for one. The longest, fullest, best angled, and healthiest branch will be the one I allow to remain attached.
Here is the same area after the side suckers have been removed. It does have an interesting shape. If it wasn't so awkwardly thick, I think the edges do offer a good change of flow in the direction of the branch.
This branch is also forked out from another branch, which it is growing in a twist around. A branch twisting around another can sometimes disturb the branches from growing healthy, because the friction of the wind causing the branches to rub together may cause the bark to scar, invite bugs, mold, or prevent new growth from forming.
This issue will have to be resolved in the future with either wiring, or selecting one of the two branches to be removed.
The lowest branch here has a similar issue with too many suckers. The top of the branch tip is growing a bit like a carrot top. Several branches have all formed at one single location.
There are also some places along the branch were too many needles are suckering out from a single point. I prefer to have branches growing in alternating patterns along the branch, and remove alternate branches that grow symmetrically. Again, this is to help prevent reverse tapering.
In the above photo, the branch has been cleaned up. Now only one single branch end extends from the tip where the suckering started, instead of multiple branches.
Is it just me, or does the actual branch look a bit like a carrot? You can really see here how the top of the branch is thicker than the base where it connects to the trunk. Hopefully in a few years this will get evened out in time as the tree trunk becomes the thickest part.
In the upper portion of the tree, I did a little bit more clean up. Removed smaller suckers that were forming symmetrically along the trunk. Now, only branches and needles alternating up the trunk remain. Some tiny suckers growing between the branch junctions were also removed.
On the left side, I compare the finished tree photo with what it looked like before, on the right photo.
Eventually this tree needs to be planted into a more shallow pot with better quality inorganic soil. A member from my bonsai club donated this #unglazed pot to me. They wanted to get rid of this pot because it has a chipped edge on one side. I think this pot complements the tree nicely. It also helps balance the height with a wider base. With some wiring, I might be able to extend the lower branches a lot wider in lateral direction. Cedar wood is extremely flexible like a spring.
So I may consider choosing this tree for this pot.
This tree is featured in these past posts by @creativetruth:
- Emerald Queen, Saphire Sorceress, and a romantic gesture from Aphrodite.
- Turning Twigs into Trees
- Four Seasons of Tree Growth
- First Winter Flower
- Thinning a Shrub to resemble a Tree
- Fantastic Tour of my Spring Bonsai Collection
Above, view photos from my past posts to watch how much this tree has changed shape over the past year. Bonsai trees take a long time to grow and develop, so being able to see the changes in a few moments is very awe inspiring.
Bonus Photo
#Butterfly-Bush is in full bloom this week.
With the scorching temperatures it may not last very long.
These make a sweet treat for the bees too. People can also appreciate these for more than their color, because the sweet #nectar smells like honeydew.
After a tree like this one finishes #flowering, I usually prune the tall #flower #stems off to help the tree backbud more #leaves and stems. It will make new flowering stems next year.
Bonsai!
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Photos in this post are all #originalworks by @creativetruth, unless stated otherwise.
Find me on discord and chat with other tree growers, bonsai enthusiasts, and gardeners. We have quite a few accredited experts filling out our ranks, and a helpful Spanish-speaking community.
