so real especially when you just want a quiet walk to take pictures of old buildings and end up having to talk to excited locals anyway

I am sometimes very deep in this state, very vulnerable. But Nepal is quite soft at this - people allow you to be alone but don't mind being photographed. So... I like :) Grateful those insane kids woke up my interest in street photography and ended my "cocoon period", lol.

a hidden gem

Yes, it is. Most people stay in the tourist part and many believe it is the central part of the city, so the old town is safe from the destructive influence of tourism.