that really does not look like India

Yeah, and I could stay longer just to enjoy walks in solitude, if not some toxic "friendship" with a local who started stalking me. :(

a lovely state of decay

A very lovely, I would say the optimal state :D

the magic would have been lost

No doubt. So... If someone is in India, Churu is a must - before its frescoes disappear or are renovated (who knows).