Surfing (from English surfing "riding on the surface") - riding on a wave on special light boards. There are several similar sports, differing by the technical means used: for example, windsurfing - sailing on a board.
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This mark is set October 22, 2015.
Surfing originated in time immemorial in Polynesia. For the first time, Hawaiians began to practice surfing (wailing he'e nalu). For them it was and remains part of the rituals. They still make boards with their own hands to this day. The first surfboards were very massive and weighed about 70 kg.
Europeans first saw it in 1767 in Tahiti. This happened during the circumnavigation of the frigate "Dolphin" under the command of Samuel Wallis. According to another version, the first was the botanist Joseph Banks on April 10, 1796 (also in Tahiti).
Mark Twain, who visited Hawaii in 1866, wrote:
In one place we came across a large company of naked natives of both sexes and all ages amused by the national bathing fun in the surf
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