Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by the moments that take our breath away.
Today was definitely one of these moments for me. It was time to baptize my new baby.Ā
Do you know these days when everything seems to be simply perfect?
Here is how surfing has made my day - and how it changed my life.
Pura vidaĀ
On days like these I remember why I was born. I am here to enjoy life.
Lucky me I donĀ“t need much to feel content. Things that make me feel alive are actually the ones that are already there: OCEAN, EARTH, SUN, WIND.Ā
ThatĀ“s one of the uncountable reasons why surfing is made for me and why I need to live close to the beach.
Why I love surfing
Can you believe that IĀ“ve been afraid of water all my life?Ā
Surfing has told me that there are infinite reasons to constantly get over my fears. First of all, I feel absolutely grounded with nature in Mother Ocean.Ā She accepts all my stresses and frustrations without any complaint.Ā Ā
When paddling out to the backline with the frustration of the day surging me onwards, I can guarantee that after the first wave I will have a massive smile on my face, and a cathartic sense of release.Ā
Through out the span of our life as a surfer, it is an individual effort with no winner or loser.Ā
We only rely on ourselves.
Picure: Preparing the equipment, waxing the boardĀ“s surface.
Surfing is a sport and lifestyle with a constant learning process
The new surfboard has set me back considerably.Ā ItĀ“s as if I had to start learning again how to catch waves. Now the analytic part of myself has to be activated. As a Computer Scientist I love studying the "IFs" and "THENs".
Surfing actually is kind of geeky. Yes, I am not kidding! Analysing the forecast of the upcoming days may even become somehow a religion. My application called magicseaweed is the one that I use most. Then, knowing how the data will transcribe to the real results at the beach takes a lot of experience.
There is no doubt: itĀ“s me who has to get in the water to catch the waves!
Picture: Two step procedure - wax for tropical climate (layer 1) & cold water (layer 2)
Learning to deal with fear
Surfing teaches me survival.Ā
When I am padding out, then there is just me against the Ocean. There might be other surfers in the water, too. But ultimately I choose which direction to paddle when a monster looms overhead.Ā Whether I try to duck-dive (with the old board that was impossible), turtle, or decide to ride it is simply up to me.Ā
The result of all my decisions depends solely on me.
Picture: On that one you can see the respect in my eyes before entering the water.
Surfing cultivates awareness.Ā
Watching a wave form right in front of my eyes gives me reason not to look away for too long since I donĀ“t have much intention to be caught on the inside.Ā
ItĀ“s rewarding. Yes, it needs a lot of efforts and strength - both physically and mentally. But there is no such feeling than being pushed by a wave, noticing the adrenaline rush and riding it all the way down.Ā
Until you know what it feels like to surf a wave you have not lived.
Thoth (another addicted surfer): "For every hour you're in the water you might only catch 10 waves (on a good day).Ā Each wave might only be a 5 second ride.Ā This translates to only 50 seconds of actual riding time for 1hour of surfing.Ā Surfers will know that every second was absolutely worth it."Ā
